Adventures in Porto

Vila Chã

Mid May we moved up to Porto, north from Lisbon and stayed on a small campsite in a village called Vila Chã. The campsite was very accommodating, the staff were helpful and friendly and we met a lovely couple from Cheshire called Brenda and Mike there. Mike owns an original 1980s Vespa scooter which he tows around in a trailer which we had seen on the campsite in Lisbon. We went out on a scooter ride with them up the Douro Valley, more details in another post.

Vila Chã is a small fishing village, several small tavernas and a few small beaches but with a long wooden walkway along the seafront. About 2km away was the biggest outlet retail park I have ever seen called Vila De Conde, home to so many brand names, Rolex, Armani, Michael Koors, Lacoste, Nike, Timberland etc. David nearly purchased a new pair of jeans, 2 pairs of Original Levi 501s for 110 but could not bring himself to pay that price!!!

We caused quite a stir when arriving at this site, as usual we contacted them ahead of arrival, confirming our size, and panicked when (a) the Sat Nav took us through the smallest village possible where we only just managed to get through a narrow road with two farm houses either side with the help of the local farmer directing traffic and guiding David and (b) the site turned out to be small and with narrow access road and plenty of overhanging trees!! However the staff were fab, they sited us on a newly created area and guided us on and off the pitch. At one point they were prepared to remove a part of a wall to get us around a tight corner but with several shifts back and forth, we made it without removing any structures!

Help!!!! Farmer, help!!! We will need your help around this next bend!!

Discussions regarding removal of a stone wall!!

Our exit road!

We made it to the newly formed area, thanks to the staff 🙂

Porto

Porto itself is a charming hillside city, steep hills worked the leg muscles but the views from the top were worth it. We warmed to it straight away, it has a bustling cafe and restaurant scene called the Ribiera on the banks of the Douro River, the old town climbing up behind it and the Cathedral topped the hill. The Cathedral was impressive, built in the 12th century in a Romanesque style and was updated in the 18th century; the vestry, the cloister and the display or ornate art were outstanding. The buildings within the town are very traditional, very ornate and very tall, built into the steep hillside and are so decorative with iron balconies.

A necessary tea break after hiking up and down streets and hills!

Possibly one of the most expensive port’s you could buy???

Ribiera Area

On the other side of the river is Gaia, a town made up of the old port houses alongside the river, and Vila Nova de Gaia, the newer part above.

We spent a day exploring the Port houses (cavas as they are called here), visiting Graham’s first then Calem’s, again in another post.

The Cathedral & Bishops Palace

The imposing entrance door.

Then we climbed this hill…..

To find this church…..

And this tower, all 300 steps to the balcony at the top! We didn’t partake this time. Lunch was calling….

Lunch was alioli potato, salad and grilled chorizo…

After a long day walking, it was time for a beer!

Vila de Conde

Mike and Brenda introduced us to a small but lovely town called Vila de Conde, where we stopped and had a beer and a bite in a particularly unique tavern, tables and chairs were made from wood, the walls were filled with odd antiquities and the room was filled with retro furniture, but where we had the most amazing tapas ever, warm braised liver and onions in a bun!! The town was an important salt exporter in Roman times and an important shipbuilder in the 1500s and is now a holiday destination for those living nearby in Porto.

The imposing monastery Mosteiro de Santa Clara was an idea of an illegitimate son of the kIng of Portugal and the daughter of a Count; the son dreamed of a stairway to heaven and laid the cornerstone of the building in 1318. The building was remodelled twice and is now an imposing Gothic building, sadly it is closed to the public whilst the local council and churches decide it’s fate, a council building or a hotel???

The monastic community were aware of the issues of bringing water to the monastery and the town, and between 1626 and 1714 built an aquaduct 4 kilometres long, 999 arches 2.5 miles from a spring, bringing water into the village and the monastery via the attached church, several lengths of which are still standing and are visible. The aquaduct was the 2nd longest in Portugal when built. Now several arches have fallen due to movement in the ground.