One of the things to do on my bucket list (and I’m sure on David’s too) was to visit Ronda in Spain. We were told of this place a few years ago by a colleague who had been there on holiday and he could not praise it enough. We can see why now. We can also highly recommend it as a “must see” place in Spain.
It truly is a fabulous natural place and cannot compare at all with the “other Rhondda Valley” in South Wales, in fact its the other end of the scale as far as you can get! As we climbed over and through the limestone mountains and fir forests of the Sierra de las Nieves Natural Park just above Marbella, we headed towards an old sprawling hilltop stone town surrounded by a more modern township.
We had booked a last minute room in a hotel and decided to go for one nearest to the best view of the bridge and we were given a top floor room with a balcony! The views during the day and at night were simply stunning; the river below was noisy and the morning mist was ethereal, so much so that words cannot actually describe the place, so photos will have to do.
First some history (thanks to Lonely Planet); Ronda is a mountaintop city in Spains Malaga province thats set dramatically above and either side of a deep gorge. This gorge (El Tajo) separates the citys circa-15th-century new town from its old town, dating to Moorish rule.
Built astride a huge gash in the mountains carved out by the Río Guadalevín, Ronda is a brawny town with a dramatic history littered with outlaws, bandits, guerrilla warriors and rebels. Its spectacular location atop El Tajo gorge and its status as the largest of Andalucías white towns have made it hugely popular with tourists (especially Chinese & Japanese!!!) particularly notable when you consider its relatively modest size. Modern bullfighting was practically invented here in the late 18th century, and the towns fame was spread further by its close association with American Europhiles Ernest Hemingway (a lover of bullfighting) and Orson Welles (whose ashes are buried in the town).
South of the gorge, Rondas old town largely dates from Islamic times, when it was an important cultural centre filled with mosques and palaces. Further north, the grid-shaped ‘new’ town is perched atop steep cliffs, with parks and promenades looking regally over the surrounding mountains.
We wandered around pretty, clean cobbled streets, visited the bullring, wandered through the main shopping and meeting area and it’s squares and visited several cervecerias (bars) and ate lots of tapas on the way!
Our room with a view.
Our early morning misty view, it was approx. 3C.
Our room was in the second block of the hotel, to the right, top floor, first balcony past the small square window!
In the light of day, the rocks take on different colours.
Our “Meet & Greet” Team on arrival!
Now for some night time views of the bridge.
Actual view from our room & freezing balcony!
Now some views of the valley below and the lush gardens and greenery.
General views of the city walls and the town itself.
The 8 spout fountain was built the same time as the church.
Of course, cats have to feature…
These steps did some damage to my knees!!!
Next day, we took a few hours to visit the Casa del Rey Moro, a palatial house that was closed and being renovated but contained landscaped terraced gardens that spilled down the hillside as well as secret mines! La Mina is an Islamic stairway of more than 300 steps cut into the rock all the way down to the river at the bottom of the gorge. These steps enabled Ronda to maintain water supplies when it was under attack. It was also the point where Christian troops forced entry in 1485. The steps (all 310 of them) were steep and wet in places but led off to additional caves, storage areas and domed rooms, so well worth the trip down. The view from the platform at ground level was spectacular. However the 310 steps back up were a killer on the buttock muscles!!!
The ornate gardens hide the entrance to the mines.
I also paid a visit to some Arabic baths (hammam) that are fairly well restored; the Muslims reigned during the 13th to 15th century and at the only gateway to the city, over a small bridge, the first building visitors came across were the baths which they were obliged to use. Water was pumped from the river by means of a wheel with buckets into channels to the baths where a simple layout of rooms were fed with water and heat to provide to three rooms that were cold, warm and hot. There was a reception area, toilet, dressing room, pool and cooling area, all of which were ruins but the main three “heated” rooms are still intact and complete.
View of the Arabic Bridge (bottom of the pic) and the three domed rooms (middle far right) .
The domed rooms had natural light provided by star shaped holes in the ceiling (see above). The surrounding gardens were likely to have been filled with herbs to be used in the baths.
View of the 3 heated rooms looking out towards reception.
Remains of Reception, changing area and latrine.
The roof openings are now covered by glass covers to preserve them.
Looking down onto the old Arabic part of the town (small white hillside houses) underneath the city walls.
And after a long day’s walking, up and down hills, we needed sustenance. Starter was a plates of mixed Iberican ham, local cheese and tomato salad….followed by a lovely steak!
Ham and cheese starter.
Jacket potato with allioil, small sizzling steak and grilled pepper.
David’s chuleta (t-bone) weighed in at 600gms….yes he finished it all!
Last drink of the night! Cheers.
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