Category: General (Page 29 of 37)

The city of Cordoba is inland, an hour’s drive east of Seville and as we found out, well worth the drive there. It’s such a pretty city, very old, full of charm and history, not particularly full of tourists so very calm and unflustered. As we approached the city we had driven through lush green hills and agricultural plains before dropping down to this compact city, over a river bridge and into the most lovely city we have been to in a long time.

History here dates back to over 4000 years ago, Roman evidence and ruins are still being uncovered and preserved. The main city comprises a compact Jewish quarter, heaving with narrow white alleyways, small businesses and traditional houses; north of the city is a more modern area full of green plazas, squares and parks and the edge of the city houses small tasteful apartment blocks that blend so well with the surroundings.

We literally had 36 hours to explore the city and so we did our best; we got lost in the Jewish Quarter several times; visited the Royal Palace and it’s beautiful gardens; explored the 12 patios of Viana Palace (a house that was inhabited by various families up to recent years); wondered at the remaining pillars of the Roman palace; wandered across the Roman river bridge and walked the edge of the city walls. However what really took our breath away was the Mezquita, originally a Mosque that was extended several times before being taken over by the Christians who added a superb Cathedral right in the middle of it. The architecture was stunning, the difference in builders over the years obvious and the eventual result is absolutely breahtaking.

We took a night tour of the Mezquita, which gave the building an eerie atmosphere but brilliantly showed off the sheer size of the building and showed what can be done with imagination and money. Originally built in the 8th century to accommodate people for prayer, it was extended three more times to finally accommodate 24,000 square meters containing 856 columns made of marble, granite, jasper and other materials. Then in 1236 Cordoba was recaptured by King Ferdinand III who rejoined Christendom and the mosque became used as church. Within the Mezquita’s centre, a Renaissance cathedral was built by Bishop Alonso Manrique in 1523. The new cathedral’s construction lasted until the beginning of the 17th century resulting in a remarkable and dazzling symbol of fine Moorish architecture.

City Walls & Jewish Quarter

Roman RemainsThe Alcazar (Palace) of the Christian Kings

Mosaics found on the Chapel walls

View of the River and Roman BridgeMezquita Walls & At Night

Inside the Mezquita

Patios Open to the Public

The Viana Palace

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We have already explored Cadiz and it’s connections to Christopher Columbus but we were also interested to learn more about his trips from Spain to “The West Indies”.

Here in Huelva province is a small coastal area called La Rabida, where we learned that the flotilla of three ships left the small port of Palos de La Frontera and headed across the ocean, after being blessed by the Spanish King and the Pope, finally reaching what is now known as Dominican Republic after 89 days at sea.

The historic route and the ships were recreated to commemorate the 500th anniversary, Columbus sailed in 1492; the Spanish Government rebuilt the ships to size to also learn more about the shipbuilding methods and the original environment that might have been experienced, and recreated the arduous journey before finally mooring them permanently at La Rabida, where many of the original sailors were born. Columbus was hailed as a hero on his return (many, including Marco Polo, had gone before but not returned) and his return subsequently opened trading lines between the two continents.

It certainly was a fascinating exhibition, excellent value for money (€3,60 each entry) and amazingly well presented!

In Huelva itself were several references to Mr Columbus, as well as some beautiful buildings! A traditional yet modern town, we will return and explore more.

Maps of Columbus’s first route, and the next three! He returned in 1504.

I wondered how many boys it took to complete a jigsaw; now I know!! Team work was amazing; they didn’t speak English and David didn’t speak enough Spanish but they worked it through!

Some views of Huelva town, a mix of modern and older buildings.

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When we booked ourselves onto a campsite halfway between Seville and Huelva on the coast, little did we know how remote the site would be. As we turned off a main road onto a potholed single width road, we headed 7km deeper and deeper into a forest, surrounded by nothing but pine trees, dirt tracks and even more endless vistas of pine trees.

The surrounding Donana National Park is a World Heritage Site, 100,000 hectares of salt marshes, scrubland, sand dunes and forest creating a mixture of lagoons, channels, beaches, marshes, wetlands and wooded pine forests. It’s home to hundreds of birds as well as lynx cats, deer and wild black hoofed pigs.

Eventually we came to what was classed as a “holiday village”, a small sandy campsite with touring pitches, bungalows and tents, perfect for parents who wanted a quiet natural break away whilst the children were kept busy in the play areas, sand pits and swimming pools. However, the only downside to this tropical paradise was that any activity outside the “village” involved a minimum 40km drive, to the nearest supermarket, decent sized town or tourist activity! Lesson learned….quiet out of the way sites = increased fuel consumption and long days! The positive points were seeing children being children, playing safely with sand, water, nature and each other as well as hearing the nightly owls and looking up to see open clear dark starry skies.

The site is owned by a French company and managed by a lovely French couple who spoke good Spanish and English; they gave us lots of hints and helpful information about the Feria in Seville and other interesting places to visit. The pool area is ideal for children, I do confess to dipping my toes in there one very hot day!

The bar was pleasant on a balmy evening, until the mosquitos arrived!

Our pitch was very spacious with sun in the late afternoon and evening.

The nearest town south of us was a place called El Rocio and what an odd place this is. As you pull off the main road you immediately drive onto what you think is a sand based car park but there is sand everywhere you walk and look.

The impressive cool white church catches the eye, as does the sandy roads, no tarmac anywhere and more horses than cars! We immediately thought we were on a stage set for a western movie but quite quickly found that this little town was just that, a small town set on the edge of the sandy national park, surrounded by lakes and rivers, full of flamingos, herons, storks and other migratory birds and inhabited by horse riding locals. The few high street shops were full of either flamenco dresses or horsey equipment, bridles, chaps, clothing, hard hats and leather boots!

The town is also famous for its White Dove (or Our Lady of El Rocio) statue and hosts an annual pilgrimage when around Pentecost a million (yes, you read it right!!!) people descend on this tiny place to pay homage to the Queen of the Salt Marshes and attend a service in the beautiful church. The interior of the church could almost be called austere, plain white walls and columns and only a colourful, but not gaudy, alter piece. To the right of the church is a building that looks and smells like it has been involved in a fire; inside is row upon row of candle holders that all point to the statue of Our Lady at the front. The ceiling and walls are totally black, burned from centuries of candle smoke.

The local hostelries provide “horse bars”, wooden structures at horse height for the placement of cold glasses of cervesa and vino. Wooden tie posts adorn the front of most houses in place of garages or patios!

The main attraction in El Rocio is the wild life in the lakes; we saw spoonbills, flamingos, osprey and herons as well as ducks, geese and we think, an otter. There was also a Flamenco club taking a quick sup before a dance session, all the ladies were dressed the same!

Driving along the endless roads around the National Park we often saw signs for “deer crossing” or “Linces” as they are called in Spain. We were very disappointed as we didn’t get to see any…..so we have created our own!

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