Travel stories of a caravan duo, plus a 5th Wheel and Isuzu truck in Europe

Category: Travel (Page 17 of 21)

Vila Nova de Milfontes AKA “Heaven On Earth”

One afternoon we ventured further south down the coast from our site in Porto Covo to a small but beautiful seaside town called Vila Nova de Milfontes (pronounced Nila Nova Meel’fonsch). We went to see the fort but this apparently has been closed to the public for a long time and no-one has got around to updating the guide books! We saw the outside walls and front door. Very neat!!

Looking down from the main road, we spotted a small ferry boat taking people over to the other side of what turns out to be a river inlet. The beach was calling, as was a restaurant sign, just in time for lunch. We were ferried over to the other side by a young girl, “Just wave when you want to come back” she said. We had a lovely lunch then wandered a little further along the bay to find a beautiful expanse of clear soft sand. The sand was clean and endless, if I think of what would constitute “Heaven” this beach may be it.

Entrance to the closed Fort.

View across the bay from the Fort walls.

View from the boat of the Fort.

Cheers, lunch was great.

Yes, lunch was very nice! Cheers!!

Sadly, this chap was grinning at me all through lunch, and really put me off my food!

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Summary So Far

Image result for spain portugal border

So…..we have been “on the road” almost eight months now and we often look back and compare situations between the two countries we have visited so far – just Spain and Portugal. We have only been in Portugal a few weeks and are already looking to cut our visit shorter, we could not wait to leave the touristy south of the Algarve, so we have just arrived in the City of Lisbon before heading off to Porto in the north.

Google tells me that since September last year, we have visited 258 different and new places, so I’m assuming it’s counting all the towns and cities we have been to, sounds about right! Our trip was always planned to be based on the coastline of Europe, and so far we have stuck to it, stayed on the coast and headed inland for the day or overnight. We want to learn all about the culture, the area’s history, learn the language and immerse ourselves in the life style as much as possible. It does seem that areas that we have been to have developed food and drink assimilations, wonder why??

So we would like to share a few thoughts and comments with you, Spain in red; Portugal in green!

Spain is cheaper to live in! Diesel is €1.05 a litre, heading up to €1.25. Bottle of house wine €5 in a restaurant, beer or glass of wine in a bar €1.50. Fruit and veg prices in the supermarket are similar.

Diesel in Portugal is €1.26 to €1.46, bottle of house wine is just over €7, glass of beer or wine €2.00. Meat prices are about 10 – 15% more. Campsite prices are more expensive in Portugal.

Spanish drivers are erratic and slow; they have no concept of going around roundabouts, they go across them. They will let you in if queueing but will not acknowledge any courtesy you show. They do over the speed limits on motorways but in towns they are snails.

Portuguese drivers are maniacs, overtaking on blind bends, overtaking the trailer on the inside of a roundabout, all do over the speed limit, honk their horns as soon as lights change colour, will NOT let you into merging traffic and push their way in front of you. They drive 2 inches from your bumper, then overtake at a silly speed, then almost take the bonnet off by cutting in. No acknowledgement of courtesy, and after midnight, horns are honked louder and motorbikes are noisier!

Pedestrian crossings are law – wait for the green light – if you cross on a red light, they would not think twice about running you over. All drivers will stop at zebra crosssings if they see a person 100 yards away!

Not sure if Portugal recognises pedestrians at all, unless you stick to traffic light crossings, your life is in your own hands.

Spanish roads empty from 3 – 5pm for Siesta time! Portugal does not sleep in the afternoon. Traffic continues.

Spanish music and dance (flamenco) is colourful, vibrant and a happy event; Portuguese version is Fado, dour, soulful and no dancing.

Spanish people are vibrant, noisy, colourful (in skin and dress style), friendly, helpful, amorous and the language is easy to understand and attempt. If you try to converse in Spanish they laugh then correct you.

Portuguese people do not know how to smile. The appear dowdy, quiet, almost sullen. The language is very different to Spanish, it sounds almost Russian, lots of “chz” and “schs” in words. Not one word is familiar and you are not encouraged to try the language, everyone speaks English.

Spanish countryside is vast, agricultural farming is not obvious and domestic animals or wildlife is rarely seen. The landscape varies from north (lush vegetation, flat plains in the middle, mountains surrounding) to the south which is sandy, dry, more tropical (palm trees and truit trees) and mountainous.

Portugal seems to be a smaller country so more houses are packed in closer together. Sheep, goats and cows are often seem in small pens beside small farmhouses. The fields, when not cultivated, resemble scrubland, overgrown with weeds and bushes.

Spanish houses are mostly traditional, white walls, yellow highlights and red roofs, BBQ chimney in the garden, lots of shade.

Portugal seems to be building more properties that resemble oblong concrete boxes, out of place next to the small white washed cottages in village hillsides.

Spanish food is based on seafood, rice, wine and fresh vegetables. Meat dishes are based on the local Iberican pork, but veal, chicken and steak selections are always on the menu. Starters are always as huge as a main meal when ordering from an al a carte menu. The “menu del dia” is on average €10 for a starter, main, dessert, bread and a 1/2 bottle of wine or soft drink. Fast food chains are limited to McDonalds and Burger King (often opposite each other) and the odd pizza shop.

Fish is a huge part of a Portuguese menu, with Iberican pork or plain pork and a steak being the alternatives. Piri piri chicken is a popular takeaway, chicken is rarely on a menu. Fast food chains have caught on here, McDonalds, Burger King, KFC, Pizza Hut, Starbucks, Wok Kitchen etc… everywhere in towns. Menu of the day deals are not common and a bottle of house wine is always Portuguese, which are not so great!

Spain on Sunday is family day. Everything is closed except restaurants. Families eat out or together then a stroll along the prom or down the park in town, with all the children, dogs, bikes, go-karts and push chairs. Mobility scooters are rare.

Sunday is another regular day in Portugal, shopping centres and supermarkets are open. Nothing seems to change except there is a little less traffic about on the roads.

Spanish cultural activities (churches, museums, castles, forts, ruins etc.) are mainly in Spanish but English literature is always given out. Well signposted and plenty to see and do. Lots of places are free or ask for a small charge.

The Algarve’s activities are mainly aimed at beach based tourists – boats, seaside activities, british food and drinks, water parks and kiss me quick hats and blow up lilos. Ample shops selling tourist “treasure” – candle holders, ceramic ships, name bracelets etc. Very few tourist attractions outside this genre. Along the Atlantic coast it changes to attract the surfing community. Very few historical sites and if they do exist there is little signposting and no English translations.

Will update them as we find more differences, but please do feel free to ask questions!!

 

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Seville’s Annual Fair (Feria)

Two weeks after Semana Santa (Easter week) major Spanish cities celebrate the coming of spring with a massive celebratory fair called a Feria and we had the opportunity to visit this in Seville. Generally held over a week, individuals and companies hire “casetas” (translated as small houses but to us they are marquees) and parade in their finest Spanish flamenco outfits and show off their horse and carriages before sitting down to an afternoon and evening of food, drink, song and dancing. The vast area is specifically sectioned off from the town, traffic is diverted and businesses close for the week. The festivities begin just after midnight on Monday with a huge funfair and the local Mayor or dignatory opening proceedings; casetas open from midday each day and remain open until the early hours of the next morning every day, finishing the Saturday night at midnight with a huge firework display announcing the closure of the feria. Gateways are specifically built to signal the entrance to the feria, sadly we did not get to see them lit up at night.

Tradition says the more horses that pull your carriage, the higher up the social scale you are; liveried drivers are dressed to match the carriage and horses are prettied, primped and primed to look their very best. Horses are checked before entering the area, water troughs are abundant and horse “security” men tour each road ensuring the horses are well looked after and not mistreated. Carriages tour the streets before the drivers drop the occupants off outside their casetas, crossroads become a busy junction where carriages and horseback riders cross in front of each other before heading up another street to parade. Individual families also show off their horsemanship by riding solo, ladies are always riding side saddle and horses are just as smartly dressed as those pulling carriages.

The casetas themselves are impressive; we learned that individuals take out “Feria loans” to pay for this event! Some are simply one width (approx.. 8m wide) all are the same depth, dressed internally as though they are hosting a wedding; food and drink areas are at the back, and there is often a stage midway down where dancing takes place later in the evening. Companies and societies often have huge casetas, up to 200m wide with tables and chairs, bar and catering for hundreds of people. All are dressed differently, some with themes and some simply with flowers, tables and chairs.

A funfair is also attached to the Feria, with so many stalls, rides, games and children’s rides that it beats the biggest British funfair I have ever been to! We took a ride in one of the two ferris wheels to appreciate the size of the whole event, impressive beyond words!

The atmosphere was also something that we cannot describe; in the UK we have nothing that compares with this event. Royal Ascot is similar in size and tradition but the feria is much more personal as well as it being a community affair. The only noise is the wooden wheels on the cobbled streets, laughter, greetings, horses, children and the shouts and screams from funfair rides; smells are of sweaty horses, food, drink and the funfair.however, everyone has a great time regardless of age.

Pictures next!

Feria Entrance Gates

Colourful Casetas

Fancy Frillies – Young and Old!

View from the Ferris Wheel

Classy Carriages & Their Contents

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Ronda oh Ronda…..

One of the things to do on my bucket list (and I’m sure on David’s too) was to visit Ronda in Spain. We were told of this place a few years ago by a colleague who had been there on holiday and he could not praise it enough. We can see why now. We can also highly recommend it as a “must see” place in Spain.

It truly is a fabulous natural place and cannot compare at all with the “other Rhondda Valley” in South Wales, in fact its the other end of the scale as far as you can get! As we climbed over and through the limestone mountains and fir forests of the Sierra de las Nieves Natural Park just above Marbella, we headed towards an old sprawling hilltop stone town surrounded by a more modern township.

We had booked a last minute room in a hotel and decided to go for one nearest to the best view of the bridge and we were given a top floor room with a balcony! The views during the day and at night were simply stunning; the river below was noisy and the morning mist was ethereal, so much so that words cannot actually describe the place, so photos will have to do.

First some history (thanks to Lonely Planet); Ronda is a mountaintop city in Spain’s Malaga province that’s set dramatically above and either side of a deep gorge. This gorge (El Tajo) separates the city’s circa-15th-century new town from its old town, dating to Moorish rule.

We wandered around pretty, clean cobbled streets, visited the bullring, wandered through the main shopping and meeting area and it’s squares and visited several cervecerias (bars) and ate lots of tapas on the way!

Our room with a view.

Our early morning misty view, it was approx. 3C.

Our room was in the second block of the hotel, to the right, top floor, first balcony past the small square window!

In the light of day, the rocks take on different colours.

Our “Meet & Greet” Team on arrival!

Now for some night time views of the bridge.

Actual view from our room & freezing balcony!

Now some views of the valley below and the lush gardens and greenery.

General views of the city walls and the town itself.

The 8 spout fountain was built the same time as the church.

Of course, cats have to feature…

These steps did some damage to my knees!!!

Next day, we took a few hours to visit the Casa del Rey Moro, a palatial house that was closed and being renovated but contained landscaped terraced gardens that spilled down the hillside as well as secret mines! La Mina is an Islamic stairway of more than 300 steps cut into the rock all the way down to the river at the bottom of the gorge. These steps enabled Ronda to maintain water supplies when it was under attack. It was also the point where Christian troops forced entry in 1485. The steps (all 310 of them) were steep and wet in places but led off to additional caves, storage areas and domed rooms, so well worth the trip down. The view from the platform at ground level was spectacular. However the 310 steps back up were a killer on the buttock muscles!!!

The ornate gardens hide the entrance to the mines.

I also paid a visit to some Arabic baths (hammam) that are fairly well restored; the Muslims reigned during the 13th to 15th century and at the only gateway to the city, over a small bridge, the first building visitors came across were the baths which they were obliged to use. Water was pumped from the river by means of a wheel with buckets into channels to the baths where a simple layout of rooms were fed with water and heat to provide to three rooms that were cold, warm and hot. There was a reception area, toilet, dressing room, pool and cooling area, all of which were ruins but the main three “heated” rooms are still intact and complete.

View of the Arabic Bridge (bottom of the pic) and the three domed rooms (middle far right) .

The domed rooms had natural light provided by star shaped holes in the ceiling (see above). The surrounding gardens were likely to have been filled with herbs to be used in the baths.

View of the 3 heated rooms looking out towards reception.

Remains of Reception, changing area and latrine.

The roof openings are now covered by glass covers to preserve them.

Looking down onto the old Arabic part of the town (small white hillside houses) underneath the city walls.

And after a long day’s walking, up and down hills, we needed sustenance. Starter was a plates of mixed Iberican ham, local cheese and tomato salad….followed by a lovely steak!

Ham and cheese starter.

Jacket potato with allioil, small sizzling steak and grilled pepper.

David’s chuleta (t-bone) weighed in at 600gms….yes he finished it all!

Last drink of the night! Cheers.

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New Year and New Outings

New Year 2017 – 2018

December 2017 ended with a fabulous evening in Nerja – an impromptu visit to a small Italian on the seafront ended the year with a fabulous meal, fillet steak in a gorgonzola sauce made fresh for us and ended with home made tiramisu could not be topped!

Our New Years eve dinner!

We returned to our hotel, headed out onto the balcony, snuggled up with our duvets on the sunbeds and star gazed before watching the fireworks at midnight, aided by a bottle or two of cava!! Truly memorable.

Bright New Year moon.

La Alhambra 4th January 2018

We left Almeria and headed 300 miles south to the Marbella area and settled into our next camp. But before we did, we spent a day in Granada and booked onto a wonderful trip to the Alhambra, a mountain top village dating back 600+ years, made up of walls, (remains of) houses, walled gardens, fortresses, and several palaces, one for winter and the summer palace, which is further up the hill in the cool shade. When we arrived at 8.30am, the city of Granada was shrouded in low cold cloud, which didn’t burn off until mid afternoon. On arrival, the temperature was 5c and it got up to 13c! It was so cold and damp!! However, the palaces were beautiful, the architecture amazing and the views stunning, well worth the cold! Lots of photos to follow!!

We learned all about the history of the buildings, most are restored to show their glorious colours and arabic patterns, but several are left as they have been found.

Old Roman building outlines in the grounds.

The monastery is now a 5* hotel.

Manicured gardens showing ancient trees.

Internal rooms are well maintained and show the opulence and space that Kings and their wives and hareems would have had.

Symmetry in the structures was very important, as was water to cleanse the body and soul.

Fountains and flowing water everywhere.

The views from the Palace was amazing despite the winter cloud.

This picture shows the City walls, going up the hill to a church.

Finally, after a warming coffee break, we took a walk to the Summer Palace, another symmetrical building full of covered pergolas, water fountains and ponds and covered walk ways which ooze coolness and calm.

Finally we spent a few hours in Granada city, having a late lunch and looking at the Citadel (from the outside) and wandering through the city.

Cats, beautiful friendly cats everywhere.

The citadel and square.

Leaving Granada, we catch sight of the Sierra Nevadas, which are half an hour away, and spot the snow capped mountains.

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