Travel stories of a caravan duo, plus a 5th Wheel and Isuzu truck in Europe

Category: Travel (Page 11 of 21)

Dalmatian Coast – Zadar, Nin & Pag Islands

Zadar

We took a day trip to Zadar, a small peninsular city on the coast. It had become a became a Roman colony in the 2nd century, the Romans brought with them civilisational advances, for example hot air central heating in homes and an aqueduct to and from Vransko lake 40km away. The remains of the old Roman Forum are surrounded by what is left of the walls, churches and other Roman buildings. Very little remains of the original city walls or gates.

Over the centuries, the inhabitants of Zadar focused on shipping, and the city became a naval base to rival Venice. In the 16th century, Turkey invaded Dalmatia, and Zadar retreated behind reinforced walls in the city and, aided by the Venetian colonisers, became the largest city-fortress in the Venetian Republic. It was then ruled by French, Austrians, Italians and then the Germans, until it was liberated by the Allies in 1944 to become part of Tito’s Yugoslavia. Unfortunately, in the process, the Germans bombed 65 percent of the city to ruins.

It was slowly being rebuilt but during the Yugoslavian war of 1991-1995, Zadar was under siege for three months, and bombarded from positions further afield for most of the duration of the war. The population was forced underground, surviving on inadequate supplies of food and water.

The scars of these wars are just visible as rebuilding has taken place in every sense but the city has changed dramatically in the last ten years since the last war ended. It feels modern yet old, as though the Romans had been again, rebuilt the city then left.

On the seafront, several sculptures reflect the new part of the town, the blue circle in the picture below is a huge globe made of reflective blue glass sections, in the pattern of a compass. Beside it, the stepped promenade had gaps underneath that play an organ type sound caused by the wind. It’s called the Sea Organ, click here for more info and to listen. http://www.oddmusic.com/gallery/om24550.html

Nin Island

Another day trip was to Nin island, our local town which was just a mile or two away. It is an island aged over 3000 years old, home to drystone walled houses and Roman mozaics, it was the place where the Croatian state was formed and was the permanent seat of national rulers – dukes and kings, right up to the 19th Century.

It is famous for it’s own Sausage called a “Sakol”, a smoky pork chorizo style sausage, which has it’s own Festival in the summer. Pork neck is soaked in sea salt water for a few days, then in boiling red wine for a few hours then seasoning and spices are added, before it is smoked then dried, it tastes very smoky and salty!

It is also famous for having medicinal mud on one of the beaches, called the Queen’s beach. It was said that in 900, one of the area’s kings would bring his wife here to bathe in the medicinal mud, making her look more beautiful after her week’s treatment.

Pag Island

Pag was an hour’s drive away, attached to Nin by a bridge. The island is famous for it’s barren, white moonlike landscape, it’s goats cheese and the production of salt which it harvests by blocking up the sea in a small lagoon and drying it in the sun. Pag salt has a pink colour to it. There are only three towns on Pag, the main town is a typical seaside town, several smaller hotels, restaurants and bars. Further north along the island is another town called Novalja, a nightlife and party town!

Trieste – Good-bye Italy!

One place I wanted to visit on our travels through northern Italy was Trieste, in the 40’s and 50’s my Grandfather was a regular visitor to Italy and Trieste, so I wanted to visit to see what had caught his attention plus it is the last city in Italy before the short 20km journey through Slovenia into Croatia.

Approaching Trieste.
Our journey from Cavallino, to Grado, Trieste, then Rovinj in Croatia.

Grado

We were parked nearby in Grado (another peninsular) for a few days and waited until the rain abated before spending a day in the city. Grado is a fishing village, but has now become a tourist town, modern seaside hotels blend well with old stone buildings and classical Italian buildings. Our pitch was huge, right on the sea front, which would have been lovely in the sun and summer!

View of the beach behind us.
Wild flowers in a field nearby.
The SR352 road leaves Grado and is a 11km road over the Lagoon.

Miramar Castle

On our way to Trieste, we stopped on the coast road and explored the gardens of Miramar castle, built in the 1850s for the Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian and his wife, Charlotte of Belgium. The beautiful landscaped gardens swept right down to the blue Adriatic sea. There were many acres of landscaping but we pushed onto the city itself, as the dark rain clouds were threatening again!

According to tradition, when the archduke was caught in a sudden storm in the Gulf, he took shelter in a little harbour of Grignano and he chose that bare rocky spur of limestone origin as the setting for his home.

Trieste

Trieste is a lovely city, old yet modern, clean and spacious, with a castle and church on the top of a hill, and a huge port, railway terminal and bus station. It even has it’s own Grand Canal! As a prosperous seaport in the Mediterranean region, known for it’s coffee trade, Trieste became the fourth largest city of the Austro-Hungarian Empire after Vienna, Budapest and Prague. It has been owned by the Venetians, French, Austrians, Italians, Hungarians, Slovenes and Yugoslavians, before becoming a “free city”. Trieste was one of the oldest parts of the Habsburg Monarchy, belonging to it from 1382 until 1918.

The Piazza Unità d’Italia, is close to the sea and has many important buildings, examples of neo-classical arhitecture; the Grand Canal was originally the main river canal for the salt pans. A Roman theatre is located below the hill of St. Giusto, the theatre was lost under newer buildings and re-discovered in the early 19th century. St Giusto is the location of the first fortified settlement from the 1300s, with a castle and cathedral perched on the top of the hill with amazing views over the city.


Bird’s eye view of Trieste.

Seen in the Square…..

Venice Part 3 – Murano & Burano

We spent yet another day in this beautiful city with our friends Mike and Brenda, as well as visiting two of the Lagoon’s islands of Murano, and Burano with our 24 hour travel cards. 

Drinks on Venice front.

Murano

Murano is famous for its glass factories which produce such fabulous creations as chandeliers, glass vases and bowls, and drinking glass and decanter sets, all hand blown.  The colours and designs were outstanding, some traditional, some modern. The small island was heaving with tourists and we had a disappointing lunch of dry tasteless pizza, a first in the whole time we have been here in Italy.

Burano

Burano can only be described as a rainbow of colours!!! It is a small fishing village, where each house is painted in a bright colour different to it’s neighbour and is the home of hand made lace products.  The canal that flows through the middle of the island showcases the bars and restaurants that make the most of the green colour of the water and the different colours of the houses edging it. It’s also where you will find traditional British Pole dancers!!!

The village square and church

Venice Part 1

Our Arrival

When we plot a new route, we do (99% of the time!!) check the sat nav and when our route from Lake Garda to Venice showed message “includes toll/ferry roads” we thought, yes, toll roads, that’s fine, and we ploughed on.  The sat nav is set up to show us as a “Lorry, 15m long and 3.8m high”!

Our eventual arrival in Venice was delayed by a couple of hours when, as we approached the City, the sat nav decided to send us the shortest route – using a ferry from the main town across the lagoon onto the peninsular where our site was!  We had not anticipated the ferry crossing and had no idea whether we could board it or not, so we continued past the ferry port into the town, however, the military police guarding the entrance to Venice realised, as we did, that we had made a mistake and turned us around, only to add another 70kms to our journey all around the edge of the lagoon! 

We got there eventually, got to our pitch right beside the Adriatic Sea, and were joined by Mum and Dad for a couple of days. We established later that we could have got onto a vehicle ferry at a cost of €75, which would have taken half an hour, instead of the 1.5 hours to took to drive round the coast!

Having been on the site a few days, we were suddenly surrounded by Germans in their motorhomes.  We selected a large pitch, away from the facilities, in a short road of 5 pitches on either side, all looking towards the sea, so when a small Eriba caravan parked right behind us, in our shade, without a view of the sea, we could not work it out.  Maybe he was posing to capture a photo of little and large! Then another German in an old dirty rusty scrappy motorhome parked in front of us – we wondered what we had done to upset them!

Large and little!

The peninsular is a long sandy stretch of land, home to 31 camp sites ranging from 2* to 5*, small to huge in size, and several hotels, a few bars, several restaurants and small shopping areas.  Nothing else!  The beach is the attraction, 30kms of gentle sandy slopes into the Adriatic, with camp sites offering their facilities such as sun beds and umbrellas, cafes, dog only beaches and games areas.

Venice City

Venice City is an island, it is said it was built by fishermen, who sunk wooden posts into the soft sand in the Lagoon and built on top, creating a road free canal city, accessed only by over 417 bridges. 

On a Friday, we took the passenger ferry from our peninsular the other side of the Lagoon to the island of Venice, disembarking right by St Mark’s Square, along with half the population of China and a boat load of Germans off a Viking River cruise ship!

Busy river traffic.

We saw St Mark’s Square being prepared for a ceremony, what a wonderful place to hold a university graduation.  The Basilica was closed when we were there, so we made the most of admiring the exterior, the covered old cafes and hotels skirting the square and the beautiful buildings and narrow streets that fed off it.

St Mark’s Square waiting for the Graduation ceremony.

One café advertised “hot tea at €9.50, Americano coffee €11.00, Espresso €10.00 and Cappucino €12.00”.  However, you would have had silver service waiters and a brass 3 piece ensemble playing softly in the background. We didn’t stop.  

Venetian gondolas were full of Chinese/Japanese people or young students, they looked idyllic but were pricey, a 20 minute journey around the canals will set you back €80 for up to 6 people, €100 when it’s dark! It would seem that 20 minutes is ample time to see all the sights, as the drivers know all the short cuts to all the famous bridges and locations.  So we made do with our feet and walked several miles through the city to the north part of the island and made our way back to the south by river taxi.

Considering the age of the city, it’s in fairly good shape, some buildings could do with a scrub to remove water marks and mildew but that would detract from the age and look, and would possibly harm the exteriors which are often very decorative plaster or carved wood and full of stained glass windows.  Lots of buildings are baroque style, full of ornate carved wood, most are water front, tall and narrow, creating busy narrow water ways and alleys.

General Pictures of Venice

Full view of St Mark’s Square.

Lake Garda Revisited

We arrived at Camping Bella Italia in Peschiera, Lake Garda and was greeted by the friendly security guard who remembered us from last year, calling Samson an “elephant carrier” as he couldn’t describe it as a motorhome or caravan!!

Last year we spent several weeks here exploring the small lake side villages, this time around, we were with my Mum and Dad, Heather & Mike, so were able to share the views with them.

We took them to Bardolino and Lazise, where last year David and I spent our anniversary, we showed them the beautiful ports and walled towns.  Bardolino was in full bloom with amazing flower displays.

We spent a day out at the Museum Nicols, a private collector’s display of over 100 vintage and classic cars, over 100 motorbikes and bicycles as well as old sewing machines, typewriters, cameras, vanity cases, gramaphones, radios and other memorabilia.

We also took the local ferry from Peschiera to the top of the lake and back again, a whole day out, stopping at most of the villages.  We disembarked at a town near the top of the lake called Malcesine, where last year in October David & I took the cable car to the top of Monte Baldo and watched paragliders launching from the ridges, but this year in April, the cable car was full of skiiers, taking advantage of the snow on the top!  It was colder than last year so we decided to skip the cable car and visited the castle instead, catching a bride and groom being photographed in the grounds following their ceremony in one of the rooms within the castle.

We did climb to the top of the bell tower, just as the bells chimed!  Fabulous views, despite it being a little foggy which also gave us a lovely sunset.

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