Benny & Bessy's Travels from 2021 and Samson & Suzi's European Travels 2016-2020...... (as named by Jack Spencer)

Travel stories of a caravan duo, plus a 5th Wheel and Isuzu truck in Europe

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Zaragoza – the Windy City

We arrived in Zaragoza for a week’s stay at a municipal campsite and were pleasantly surprised. We have heard several other people comment on how municipal sites were run down but thankfully this one is not. It’s on the outskirts of the city, about 6km out and under the flight path of the International Airport and the military one! However, I don’t think this is the reason it is known as the Windy City, this is due to it’s location mid Spain, surrounded by mountain ranges and on a huge plateau. One positive to the wind is, combined with the 23c sun, the laundry dries in 2 hours!

So we are both trying to learn Spanish through a BBC disc and Duolingo and practising with the locals where possible which is easy in a bar (two beers, two Americano coffees etc.) but not anywhere else. The Spanish speak so fast that I have learned to say “lentamente por favor….” which means “slowly please.” One morning we venture into the local precinct and opt to take the bus into the city. The number 43 trundles along and I have already looked up the translation for “two return tickets please” which should be “dos boletos de vuelta por favor” but you know how it is….the bus driver says something strange and my mouth blurts out “dos returnos por favour”…..???? where did that come from? Well, David was so gob smacked at my new found language he said absolutely nothing and we were sold two single tickets!!!

Just checking my Facebook page Senor.

The city has so many monuments, around every corner is a church or statue or bridge so we headed for the main building, the Basilica of our Lady of the Pillar. We happened to be admitted towards the end of Mass and what a moment! We watched the proceedings and were astounded at the beauty of the building, the amount of well dressed people at the service and the number of confessional boxes opsitioned in any open space.

We gawped at the beautiful paintings on the ceiling and the gold, marble and opulence at every turn, we admired the happiness in everyone’s faces and were honoured to watch the pomp and ceremony involved in such an amazing building. The building has been restored and expanded over the years and is a mix of so many styles – Baroque, Romanesue, Gothic and Moorish; it has on display several unexploded bombs that landed on the church during the Spanish Civil War of 1936–1939!

We learned that Francisco de Goya was asked to paint several of the ceilings, and subsequently found so many examples of his work around the city. I was lucky enough to be able to sit on his lap and have a word in his shell like….

Here’s a few more pictures of this amazing building.

Several of Goya’s works.

We also spend a morning at another fabulous place, however, this one has been restored to look immaculate and new so it was not as impressive. It is the seat of the Aragon Parliament during the week and full of admiring tourists at the weekend. The Palaicio de la Aljaferia was originally built as a fortified medieval Islamic palace during the second half of the 11th century and later on becoming the Royal residence of christian Kings of Aragon, before the catholic monarchs took over in 1492 after which the Palace was altered to represent a fortified military fortress. It was fully modernised between 1950 and 1990. We hope the following pictures show it’s splendour and glory.

Oh damn, he found me!

After a quiet week in the beautiful city of Zaragoza. we are heading south to Benicassim, to the coast and the sun!‘,

Castle in the Sky

Before leaving Navarrete and La Rioja area, we took a drive out to a castle in the sky, literally! The remains of the castle are believed to date before the 11th Century due to it’s Moorish design but no actual records of it’s ownership can be found to confirm this. The only reference to it is in 960 when Count Fernan Gonzalez was taken prisoner by the King of Navarre and it is recorded that he was imprisoned in a castle in Pamplona then in a castle in Navijo. The remains of the castle stand atop a huge rock, with outstanding views over the plains below, the construction was apparently of a timbered wall system enclosing earth, stone and plaster; its perimter walls (1.5m thick) supported cylindrical towers topped with battlements and a walkway. The remains have not been altered or maintained which was lovely to see but our British Health & Safety Officers would have an absolute fit if they saw us on this structure!!!

Ascending to the skies….

Looking out at the approach road from one of the turret windows.

I prefer to stay up top, where I felt safer!

The village of Navijo.

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Wine and Warhol? Together?? I hear you ask???…..

Being in the Rioja area, we could not not visit a vineyard, so we did!  Several in fact.  We also managed to inadvertantly increase our knowledge of Andy Warhol’s paintings, yes….. really!  Wine and culture again!!nnnnToday’s blog is all about culture, so be prepared to be educated!  One local vineyard recommended to us for it’s building and wine was Ysios Bodega, just outside a hilltop village called Laguardia; we were (wrongly) informed that you did not need to book an appointment so off we went.  We were following signposts when something caught our interest, a Roman archeological site called La Hoya, discovered and excavated in the 1970’s.  It is said that the whole town was wiped out by a viscious  attack by ‘horribles unknown’, bodies were left as they fell, pots were buried with food in them and as years passed the whole town gradually disappeared under soil.  The site is one of several across a 45km area that were totally eradicated in this way.  Pictures below show some of the roads, shops and house layouts, with the Ysios Bodega in the background.  As it happened we arrived at Ysios the same time as a small coachload of tourists, all refused entry as we had not prebooked!  We went back to the ranch and booked a guided tour at another famous Bodega nearby – Marques de Riscal.nn

Ethereal remains with Laguardia in the background.

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From the site we could see the modern building that housed the Ysios Bodega.

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Impressive entrance, shame it was closed!

nnWe also visited the Museum of Wine at the Vivanco Bodega, such an interesting place.  We learned all about the vines, how every vine in the world is grown from being “grafted” not from a seed or root (to maximise quality);  how the soil influences the variety and strain grown;  how the seasons and terrain affect the flavour of the grape;  how they are still (in Spain) mostly harvested by hand, the processes involved in juicing them, pulping the must, pressing the remains and the storing the liquid.  We learned how barrels and corks were made; how the product was considered medicinal (in small quantities of course) and how it was shipped abroad to all the world in exchange for improved business knowledge and more modern process knowledge from other grape growers.  Finally we visited a cellar and experienced the smell and feel of the storage area, with several thousand barrels made of American oak – this was such a hair raising experience.  The room was cool, probably about 16c, humid but not wet, it smelled of oak, damp, musty and wine.  The air was sweet if that’s possible. You could smell the bubbles still fermenting!!!nn

The underground storage area.

nnAlso on display were ancient artifacts and modern art relating to grapes and wine, so David and I got to see another picture by Andy Warhol – aptly named “Grapes”.  There was also a lithograph of a sketch by Picasso…..that was oddly uninteresting.nn

Entrance to the Museum

nnThe museum also had a collection of several THOUSAND cork screws!!  Impressive.nnnn

Souvenir corkscrews from the UK!

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Andy Warhol’s “GRAPES”

nnSo the ultimate highlight to our stay in the La Rioja region has to be the visit to the Marques de Riscal Bodega.  The owner wanted his own “Guggenheim” so he asked Frank Gehry to design him a hotel –  it cost €85 million and took 5 years to build and represents a wine bottle – purple (for the vino tinto) and silver (for the foil cover) titanium shields and cream/white stone (for the label).  There are 14 rooms in the main building on the 1st floor, two Michelin starred restaurants on the second floor and a private library and balcony on the top floor, as well as a Spa wing with more bedrooms.  A low season nightly rate in the Spa wing is from €350 per night, dinner is a minimum cool €70 per head, I dread to think how much a G&T will set you back!!nn

Outside the main entrance.

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First floor bedrooms and 2nd floor restaurant.

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A room with a view, apparently!

nnHere we learned how the grapes were harvested at the end of August 2017 and were currently in the second firmentation stage in huge oak barrels; the earliest “young” wine would be processed and aged for 18 months, the oldest “Reserva” would take 6 years before they were bottled, labelled and hit the shops or hotel restaurants.  Again the smell here was really undescribable, yeast, alcohol, fruit, oak, sweet, burnt, cherries, pears……the list could be infinite as every person smells a different aroma.nnThe vineyard has been in operation since the late 1880’s and from each harvest the owner lays down 1000 bottles in a cellar.  Occasionally someone important comes along, like King Juan Carlos or Frank Gehry and a bottle is opened, Frank Gehry opened a bottle from 1929, the year he was born.  We were shown how the neck is heated then cooled then cut open to preserve the cork and wine.  We were shown this extensive private wine cellar (below), as well as the modern mechanised bottling plant.nn

The private wine cellar where 1000 bottles of each variety in each year is stored, occasionally being opened to monitor it’s ageing progress or for special occasions.

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These barrels contain a Crianza, made up primarily from a Tempranillo grape, and the contents are about 3 years old.  The temperature was a steady 16C.

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Each barrel is racked a minimum of 8 times in it’s life.

nnApparently this one Bodega manufactures 9 million bottles of red, white and rose wine each year, for distribution through Spain, Europe and the world.  Nine million bottles of wine a year!!!  Amazing.nn

Several thousand bottles waiting to be crated and shipped.

nnWe did get to taste a red and white Wine, we were shown how to look at the colour,  smell the aromas and taste the grapes and we feel we are now wine officianados, so beware the next time you open a bottle of red wine in our company!!!nn

Goodbye La Rioja with it’s fabulous scenery and history.

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Handbags, Shoes and Views in Laguardia

A few cloud clicks away is a picture perfect hilltop village – Laguardia. It has a walled city, fabulous architecture, amazing views and some outstanding restaurants and hotels. As we visited on Friday 20th October, we asked the receptionist in one of the hillside hotels if they possibly had a room for Saturday, as well as a few crusts in the restaurant. Sadly, we had chosen the town’s festival night so all rooms at the Inn were fully booked! However, we wandered the streets, admired the views and drank in the clean fresh air. Once again the mountain backdrop looked surreal, as did some of the metal “objets d’art” around the village.

We spotted a cat and dog taking an afternoon nap in the sun!

All properties were inhabited, the doorways led down to cavern like entrances.

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…… and so the journey south begins. Navarrete and Logrono.

Monica (The RV) and Matty the Matiz along with Keith and Jean, arriving at Zarautz for a few day’s stay.

Samson and Suzi leaving Gran Camping Zarautz 18th October.

Having spent a few days in Zarautz with our friends Keith and Jean Perry we left the Atlantic coast and headed 190 kms inland to the majestic wine region of La Rioja as Keith and Jean headed even further south. We are based in a small village 10kms outside Logrono called Navarrete, a small hilltop church and several “Bodega” signs suggesting this is a bustling place, we have yet to find this bustle! However it is in a fabulous situation, in a huge plateau between several mountain ranges and surrounded by miles upon miles of vineyards in varying colour.

We have ventured into Logrono, a large city with a smaller pedestrianised medieval centre, an abundance of parks, plazas and open spaces surround small alley like avenues with overhanging buildings and amazing churches and monuments. Modern shopping centres and large swathes of apartment blocks lead into the old centre, made less frenetic by a meandering river, parks and river crossings, all with the mountains in the background. Despite it being a city, Logrono is very laid back and calm, spacious and green.

Taking a break in the Cathedral Square

An example of some fabulous architecture

One of the River Ebro’s bridges with the mountains in the background.

The modern side of Logrono

The views from our campsite and the surrounding areas cannot be described adequately, the morning sun reflects on the red earth and creates huge pink streaks and the sun sometimes makes the mountain range looks like it is covered in snow……I hope the pictures below convey the views we have. The town’s small church is an eye opener, we were stunned by the amount of gold in the altar.

Navarrete hilltop village.

Navarrete’s church interior.

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