Benny & Bessy's Travels from 2021 and Samson & Suzi's European Travels 2016-2020...... (as named by Jack Spencer)

Travel stories of a caravan duo, plus a 5th Wheel and Isuzu truck in Europe

Page 30 of 39

Porto Covo & Sines, Portugal

Before leaving the South of Portugal, we stayed in small town called Porto Covo. In the 18th century Porto Covo was simply a small fishing village, activity was limited by the Atlantic climate and the port’s inaccessibility during bad weather; in 1843 there were no more than 20 residences recorded. Tourism eventually took over fishing in the 1990s and during the summer these days it is said that the population increases ten fold with holiday makers, surfers, bathers, boaters and sporting fishermen descending on the regimental white and blue rental properties in the town. The town is well known for its festival at the end of August, a religious festival for Our Lady of Solitude, culminating in 1000’s of people camping on the beaches for the weekend! Until recently the festival encouraged locals to bring their herds of cows and sheep too, this activity is not encouraged nowadays!!

1920s photo of people walking through the village streets to the beach for the August festival.

The campsite we stayed on is a fairly new one, owners are investing a lot of money to create a 4 or 5 star venue; they are most of the way there and hope to finish renovations within 18 months. It’s on a hilltop, the sounds of the waves can be heard during the day and at night (if the frogs and owls are not too noisy) and the sea can just be seen over the perimeter fencing. The beaches nearby are lovely, beautiful sandy sheltered coves with bars in some, rocky outcrops create some spectacular scenery at night.

We had a very close encounter with the Castle wall at the nearby town of Sines, thanks to TomTom, who directed us through a small nearby town and without the help of locals moving their vehicles and directing us through, we would not have made it through the square without taking one of the castle perimeter walls with us!!! Note, picture below, one way street, and we had to do a sharp left before the castle!

Sines is a larger town, home to Vasco da Gama, he was born in the castle, he built himself a church nearby, and had streets and a church named after him. The town is on a hilltop, overlooking a lovely bay, it’s also home to a very large oil refinery so tankers came and went all hours of the day.

‘,

Lisbon & Surrounding Towns

Our Lisbon Stay

Our stay in Lisbon was on a municipal site in the middle of a city, albeit surrounded by parkland, it was also surrounded by main roads. Buses, motorbikes, cars, ambulances and fire engines, as well as Easyjet and Ryanair planes overhead, all adding to the bustling noisy ambience. Travel into the city was quick, easy and cheap, and we revisited some parts of the city that we felt we had missed out on during our weekend visit last year.

We were not far from an area called Belem, the port from where Vasco da Gama set off to explore the world. Belem is on the banks of the River Tagus and is also home to the President’s Palace, several Museums and the original bakery that approximately 150 years ago, created the local patisserie delicacy called Pastel de Nata; egg tart to you and me. We also visited the monument erected to celebrate the “Age of Discovery and Exploration” during the 15th and 16th centuries; standing 164 feet tall and jutting out over the Tagus, it is certainly impressive. We didn’t have time to join the queue to look out over the top, sadly!

We spent a few hours in one of the many churches in the city, and wondered at it’s beauty. Recently churches in Portugal have become very plain and boring, this one was not. We also took the 120 steps up a circular stairwell to the rooftop and enjoyed the views.

Front of the church.

A panoramic view of the nave and two alcoves.

A view from a walkway around the nave.

Views from the rooftop! No sign of Health & Safety here!! We found another church, nearer to the Castle, that was just as beautiful.

We revisited the main Praco de Commercial (commercial Square) – the next two images were taken from the same Bell Tower but 18 months apart. In August 2016 it was about to hold a nightly laser lights show, this year it was home to the Eurovision Village, live performances from musicians, as well as live screenings of the semi finals and finals on Saturday night. The town was overflowing with gaily dressed men and women wrapped in their country flags; most people were singing along to music and enjoying the sunshine.

Praca Commercial in 2018

Praca Commercial 2016.

At 8,30pm, on Saturday night, this was one of the queues to get into the Eurovision village!

We visited the Fado museum, housed in an old water pumping station, but was very disappointed; we didn’t realise the time was 5.15pm when we entered and we had only been around 1/5th of the venue when an usher advised us that they were closing in 5 minutes, at 6pm!! So we know very little more about Fado than we did last year! Several hours were spent in and around Fado bars in the evening, listening to the soulful music before we decided that we prefer the Spanish equivalent – flamenco! Fado is dour, soulful, poems about sadness, loss of love and life, and about the heart, singers wear black and grey clothing. Flamenco also sings about these themes but it’s the dancing and clothing that makes a difference, it adds colour and adds to the vibrancy and excitement.

The epitome of Fado……I love this painting.

A square right outside the Fado museum.

On the night of Eurovision, there was a parade of classic cars through the town; 130 vehicles were on a rally, from Germany not sure where to.

We took a drive out to a town called Cascais, just along from Estoril, home to the famous Formula 1 Portuguese racetrack, used between 1950 to the last race in 1996. The Autodromo is outside the city but the remaining effects of the one week circus was obvious, Rolex shops, Casinos, sea front restaurants, large seafront hotels and even larger seafront villas. Cascais is a holiday resort popular with cruise ship visitors (after their trip to Sintra – more on this another day) so the town is heaving with Italian and Indian restaurants, souvenier shops and designer clothing shops.

‘,

Vila Nova de Milfontes AKA “Heaven On Earth”

One afternoon we ventured further south down the coast from our site in Porto Covo to a small but beautiful seaside town called Vila Nova de Milfontes (pronounced Nila Nova Meel’fonsch). We went to see the fort but this apparently has been closed to the public for a long time and no-one has got around to updating the guide books! We saw the outside walls and front door. Very neat!!

Looking down from the main road, we spotted a small ferry boat taking people over to the other side of what turns out to be a river inlet. The beach was calling, as was a restaurant sign, just in time for lunch. We were ferried over to the other side by a young girl, “Just wave when you want to come back” she said. We had a lovely lunch then wandered a little further along the bay to find a beautiful expanse of clear soft sand. The sand was clean and endless, if I think of what would constitute “Heaven” this beach may be it.

Entrance to the closed Fort.

View across the bay from the Fort walls.

View from the boat of the Fort.

Cheers, lunch was great.

Yes, lunch was very nice! Cheers!!

Sadly, this chap was grinning at me all through lunch, and really put me off my food!

‘,

Historic Silves

There is very little history in Portugal so it was lovely to find a town with something that occupied us for more than an hour. Silves (pronounced Sill-vesh) is just a little inland and away from the tourist crowds. It’s castle dominates the town, and it’s full of Roman history, followed by evidence of it being part of the Emirate of Cordoba (Moors), then reigned by the Portuguese, Almohads, Christians, Muslims again and finally in 1240ish it became Portuguese again with the mosque being changed into a Cathedral. The Castle is known to be 6m deep in places; it dominates the skyline. In the grounds are excavations dating back to the 8th century, it has been used as a residence, a jail and now it’s remains are open to the public – the floral and herb gardens, ponds, sculptures and a restaurant make it a peaceful place to be.

The whole town is built on one of the largest known aquifers in Southern Portugal; an aquifer is an underground pocket of water created by permeable rocks. The town is full of orange groves and other fruit trees, bought to the town by the Moors.

Interior of the church, very modest.

View of the church from the castle walls.

A couple of handsome chaps!!

Castle walls and remains of Roman houses.

View along the castle walls.

Remains and reconstruction of a medieval archway.

We understand the Medcalf gypsies used to love this town, and spent many a day parked up in their motorhome in the area marked!!

 ‘,

Summary So Far

Image result for spain portugal border

So…..we have been “on the road” almost eight months now and we often look back and compare situations between the two countries we have visited so far – just Spain and Portugal. We have only been in Portugal a few weeks and are already looking to cut our visit shorter, we could not wait to leave the touristy south of the Algarve, so we have just arrived in the City of Lisbon before heading off to Porto in the north.

Google tells me that since September last year, we have visited 258 different and new places, so I’m assuming it’s counting all the towns and cities we have been to, sounds about right! Our trip was always planned to be based on the coastline of Europe, and so far we have stuck to it, stayed on the coast and headed inland for the day or overnight. We want to learn all about the culture, the area’s history, learn the language and immerse ourselves in the life style as much as possible. It does seem that areas that we have been to have developed food and drink assimilations, wonder why??

So we would like to share a few thoughts and comments with you, Spain in red; Portugal in green!

Spain is cheaper to live in! Diesel is €1.05 a litre, heading up to €1.25. Bottle of house wine €5 in a restaurant, beer or glass of wine in a bar €1.50. Fruit and veg prices in the supermarket are similar.

Diesel in Portugal is €1.26 to €1.46, bottle of house wine is just over €7, glass of beer or wine €2.00. Meat prices are about 10 – 15% more. Campsite prices are more expensive in Portugal.

Spanish drivers are erratic and slow; they have no concept of going around roundabouts, they go across them. They will let you in if queueing but will not acknowledge any courtesy you show. They do over the speed limits on motorways but in towns they are snails.

Portuguese drivers are maniacs, overtaking on blind bends, overtaking the trailer on the inside of a roundabout, all do over the speed limit, honk their horns as soon as lights change colour, will NOT let you into merging traffic and push their way in front of you. They drive 2 inches from your bumper, then overtake at a silly speed, then almost take the bonnet off by cutting in. No acknowledgement of courtesy, and after midnight, horns are honked louder and motorbikes are noisier!

Pedestrian crossings are law – wait for the green light – if you cross on a red light, they would not think twice about running you over. All drivers will stop at zebra crosssings if they see a person 100 yards away!

Not sure if Portugal recognises pedestrians at all, unless you stick to traffic light crossings, your life is in your own hands.

Spanish roads empty from 3 – 5pm for Siesta time! Portugal does not sleep in the afternoon. Traffic continues.

Spanish music and dance (flamenco) is colourful, vibrant and a happy event; Portuguese version is Fado, dour, soulful and no dancing.

Spanish people are vibrant, noisy, colourful (in skin and dress style), friendly, helpful, amorous and the language is easy to understand and attempt. If you try to converse in Spanish they laugh then correct you.

Portuguese people do not know how to smile. The appear dowdy, quiet, almost sullen. The language is very different to Spanish, it sounds almost Russian, lots of “chz” and “schs” in words. Not one word is familiar and you are not encouraged to try the language, everyone speaks English.

Spanish countryside is vast, agricultural farming is not obvious and domestic animals or wildlife is rarely seen. The landscape varies from north (lush vegetation, flat plains in the middle, mountains surrounding) to the south which is sandy, dry, more tropical (palm trees and truit trees) and mountainous.

Portugal seems to be a smaller country so more houses are packed in closer together. Sheep, goats and cows are often seem in small pens beside small farmhouses. The fields, when not cultivated, resemble scrubland, overgrown with weeds and bushes.

Spanish houses are mostly traditional, white walls, yellow highlights and red roofs, BBQ chimney in the garden, lots of shade.

Portugal seems to be building more properties that resemble oblong concrete boxes, out of place next to the small white washed cottages in village hillsides.

Spanish food is based on seafood, rice, wine and fresh vegetables. Meat dishes are based on the local Iberican pork, but veal, chicken and steak selections are always on the menu. Starters are always as huge as a main meal when ordering from an al a carte menu. The “menu del dia” is on average €10 for a starter, main, dessert, bread and a 1/2 bottle of wine or soft drink. Fast food chains are limited to McDonalds and Burger King (often opposite each other) and the odd pizza shop.

Fish is a huge part of a Portuguese menu, with Iberican pork or plain pork and a steak being the alternatives. Piri piri chicken is a popular takeaway, chicken is rarely on a menu. Fast food chains have caught on here, McDonalds, Burger King, KFC, Pizza Hut, Starbucks, Wok Kitchen etc… everywhere in towns. Menu of the day deals are not common and a bottle of house wine is always Portuguese, which are not so great!

Spain on Sunday is family day. Everything is closed except restaurants. Families eat out or together then a stroll along the prom or down the park in town, with all the children, dogs, bikes, go-karts and push chairs. Mobility scooters are rare.

Sunday is another regular day in Portugal, shopping centres and supermarkets are open. Nothing seems to change except there is a little less traffic about on the roads.

Spanish cultural activities (churches, museums, castles, forts, ruins etc.) are mainly in Spanish but English literature is always given out. Well signposted and plenty to see and do. Lots of places are free or ask for a small charge.

The Algarve’s activities are mainly aimed at beach based tourists – boats, seaside activities, british food and drinks, water parks and kiss me quick hats and blow up lilos. Ample shops selling tourist “treasure” – candle holders, ceramic ships, name bracelets etc. Very few tourist attractions outside this genre. Along the Atlantic coast it changes to attract the surfing community. Very few historical sites and if they do exist there is little signposting and no English translations.

Will update them as we find more differences, but please do feel free to ask questions!!

 

 ‘,

« Older posts Newer posts »