Benny & Bessy's Travels from 2021 and Samson & Suzi's European Travels 2016-2020...... (as named by Jack Spencer)

Travel stories of a caravan duo, plus a 5th Wheel and Isuzu truck in Europe

Page 27 of 39

Summer Update 2018 – Toulouse

It’s been a while since I posted anything, but, we have been busy! Plus I have had an issue with the website, Gremlins invaded so I’ve had to change things a little; archive pages will be added but the site shows our travels going forward from the Summer of 2018.

A summary of the two months of July and August before we continued with our travels around the South of France………. we had two weeks in the Toulouse area, drove back to the UK, took a holiday, drove back down through France and rejoined our trailer and our travels!

La Romieu, Toulouse

After leaving the Biarritz area  of France,  we moved inland for 2 weeks to stay in the Toulouse area,  in a small village called Le Romieu.  In our second week we met with an old friend Louise, her three children and parents and we explored the local towns.  David excelled in the BBQ area, coping with cooking for 8 people and still providing cold drinks on demand!  Louise, Dylan, Tyler, Isis, Jill and Ivan were lovely company on this rural campsite, it was a brilliant week.

BBQ at Chez Samson with Jill, Ivan and Louise, Chef David is hiding!!

Cooling arrival drinks for Jill, Ivan and Dylan.

Free evening of music and fireworks!

La Romieu has it’s own history in the form of a collegiate cathedral built by a local who became a cardinal, as he realised the town was on the pilgrim route to Santiago de Compostella in the north of Spain.  He built the church and it’s surrounding buildings in SIX years, quite a feat considering the average time to build a cathedral is 70 years!

View from one of the Cathedral towers.

Grounds of La Romieu.

The grounds of the church displayed a collection of photographs of local people, this lady is a local farmer’s wife and is 101 years old!

Samson at night.

Le Romieu at night.

A local village house.

Our nearest towns were Condom (yes, really!) and Lectoure.  Condom is the home to a famous resident, D’Artagnan, one of the Musketeers as well as a fabulous cathedral and a river, where we took a boat ride one sunny day.

Making friends with D’Artagnan and his pals.

Condom’s church has a complete stone quire, very rare.

Exterior of Condom church.

Lovely parents Ivan and Jill!

Boat trip on the river.

Happy days xx

Lectoure is a more traditional hilltop town, traditional local produce markets,  ancient Roman remains including a natural spring fountain and beautiful narrow cobbled streets.

A traditional old house.

View from Lectoure.

We took a day trip into Toulouse and explored the city by tourist bus, the best way when it’s hot outside and time is limited.

Toulouse main square.

We also spent some time with the owner of a cognac distillery, where he explained how it was produced, showed us his private collection and let us taste his wares.  We wandered around his estate to work off the effects of cognac at 11am before purchasing a bottle or two.  The owner only makes a batch every 6-8 years, when the harvest is a good quality and does not sell to the commecrial sector, only private individuals and visitors to his farm.  He was entertaining and informative and quite charming, well he would be after a few bevvies!! !

Francais Chaud, Hot France!

I know that England is having a heatwave, well, so are we in France!! Finally the weather has improved, not without the odd evening thunderstorm, but the temperature is up and the sun and blue skies are a more common theme these days.

France has struck us as being very English, the rolling countryside resembles the South Downs, English language and accents are common in towns and supermarket queues, lots of British people live and holiday here, the residential gardens are kept full of roses, hydrangeas and lavender, and tea is drunk here more than coffee! They have bric-a-brac markets and supermarkets are full of British products like marmalade, Tetley tea and familiar cereals. The language is easier for me than David, having sat O Level French at school some of it occasionally comes back from a tiny corner of my brain. The only difference is that British people are friendly and willing to provide a service, unlike the French!

However, before we left the coast for Gers, we visited a few local places nearby.

Urrugny

We stayed at this campsite just outside St Jean de Luz, below Biarritz, for 2 weeks. We explored the area, drove back 10kms over the border into Spain and topped up with cheaper fuel and fridge contents!

Sunset over the lake at Larrouleta campsite.

David considering the lake….

The fabulous heated pool.

The local church was an eye opener, traditional design outside, inside it was almost theatrical in design with a heavily decorated ceiling, three wooden balconies around the edges and a spectacular art deco organ added in 2000.

We visited a local chateau, where the latest generation of the family who built it still live in attached accommodation but the main house is now used as a hotel, or a museum, although the house is used for family functions. Most of the walls were decorated with old tapestries and paintings of the head of the families that had lived there. The gardens were full of herb beds as well as beautiful pink hydrangeas and roses and a perfectly manicured lawn!

The local privately owned Chateau.

The family dining table, complete with crystal glasses and one of 15 magnificent wall tapestries.

This is an original water fountain, pumped up from a well, into a lobby off the dining room.

The lounge, with Louis Vth chairs, old Piano, family portraits and another tapestry.

A portrait of the current owner’s great grandfather hangs above the fireplace. The wording engraved into the fireplace reads “We Gather, We Warm, We Cheer”.

The Trophy Room is full of local deer and antique furniture.

We visited another Chateau that was built in 1860 by a scientist with an interest in astronomy; he built himself a gothic style triangular shaped property which contained an observatory tower in one corner and a private chapel in another. As the building was perched on a hill there was no light pollution and just open skies. The day we visited was French only tours, so no point in paying out money to listen to something we did not understand!

Bayonne

This lovely riverside town was deserted on a Saturday when we visited, later in the day we realised why – everybody was in the next town Biarritz, at the beach! The riverside architecture was stunning, tall, wooden houses showed there was wealth in the area from a long time ago, and the River Nive which divided the town gave the old and new a separate feel; the old town was full of stone properties dominated by the Church; the new part was full of modern tasteful blocks of glass and metal apartments surrounded by greenery and cycle paths. On the bank of the river, we came across a beautiful old carousel, with some unusual characters as seats!

Biarritz

We revisited Biarritz, having been there September 2017, and found the beaches heaving with sun worshipers, surfers and swimmers. We sat in the same seafront bar as we did last year and had a drink, last year breakfast with fruit juice and coffee and pastries, this year a long cold drink!

San Sebastien, Spain

We also revisited San Sebastien just over the border into Spain, We had been there several times before but had not explored the tourist area around the old cathedral and “old town”. This time we meandered through the old streets admiring the cathedral, the architecture and of course, we had to stop for tapas lunch!!

Top, l to r: minced raw beef and mayo (David said it was awful!!); sardines and tomatoes; battered chicken and veg balls. Below: Mini croissant with ham; baguette with bacon and tomato; chorizo sausage in pastry; potato tortilla.

Biarritz, now and then!

At the end of June we moved over the border into France, and spent a day or two out and about. Our next site was recommended by friends, turned out to be lovely – ideal for kids. It has an indoor heated pool and an outdoor lake with an inflatable assault course. I refused to do the assault course, the water is also home to fish and ducks, and I’m sure it is acceptable to kids with strong stomachs, but not for me!!

Leaving our last site in Spain, El Helguero, near Comillas.

This is what greeted us at the new site in Urrugne, France!!!

We re-visited Biarritz, about 10kms away, and what a difference we saw! We first visited September 2017, a warm and sunny day and again in 2018, at the end of June, when the sun was shining and temperatures were on the up.

June 2018.

September 2017!

Comillas & Oriental Gaudi

Comillas Town

We spent three days at a site on the north coast of Spain, inland a little, and found ourselves a few miles away from a village called Comillas, home to one of the few houses that Gaudi built outside Barcelona.

Being a Gaudi fan, I just had to pay a visit and was not disappointed. As a friend Paul commented recently, should we wish to build such a house in the UK nowadays, we would have to talk to several medical professionals before we were given permission but in the 1880’s this was seen as a “piece de resistance” for the owner, a wealthy businessman. It was built during Gaudi’s “oriental period” and this is obvious with the Minaret type tower and decorative external tiles. He was also an assistant when a “summer house, the Palacio de Sobrella” was built for another wealthy client in the same town but that day it was closed to the public. I had a good chat with Antoni himself, who was in the gardens 🙂

The town also had the most amazing cemetery, built on and in the remains of an old church, with a huge angel statue perched on the top of a wall, donated to the town by a local; he had the statue made to place on his own child’s crypt buried in the cemetery but changed his mind and gave it to the town. Several houses in the town were built in the modernist style, paid for by money made by local businessmen in the Americas, all fitting in neatly with the old traditional coastal style as well as the “montana” style chalet houses on the surrounding hillside just outside the town.

Some modernist style houses!

 

 

The town’s monastery is currently used as a teaching college for new monks.

 

El Capricho, built by Gaudi

 

A 1902 chair made by Gaudi, very ergonomic and comfortable.

 

 

The attic rooms in the house, with wooden steps to the outside terraces (right) and some furniture made by Gaudi.

Another example of some furniture made by Gaudi.

Having a chat with the man himself in the gardens….

The old church yard.

Llanes

We also visited another local town called LLanes (pronounced Yann-nes) which was worth the short drive. This town has a small fishing port, a working light house, old ruins of a monastery in the older part of the city and amazing views of the coast from a coastal walk.

Gijon

We arrived at this large seaside town just in time to witness a wedding, complete with local pipers! The bride arrived in an old 1940’s Citroen, cars that the SS used to drive during the second world war. The bride and her entourage were beautiful as were the attendees, a real fashion show!

Gijon is a hillside town, topped by a large park which once held the battle stations that protected the town, now a tourist attraction within the park. An old tobacco factory overlooked the old square which was full of sidre selling bars and restaurants, leading down to a marina, which years ago used to support a dying fishing activity but has now given way to the modern activities of jet skis, small yachts and pleasure boats.

Old look out posts.

Santander

We also paid a visit to Santander, and found it to be a bit of a disappointment. It is a port and ferry town, very industrial and commercial but around a peninsular was a thriving coastal side to the town. We found there to be very little history in the town; we walked for ages up a very steep hill to find a “funicular at the top of a viewpoint”, the funicular only went a fifth of the way up and down, and the view was only of rooftops!

View of the rooftops from the View Point! Red faced, from all the walking uphill!!

Santander Bank HQ.

‘,

North, South, East, West, Where Does The Sun Shine Best?

This week we completed the circuit!!! We passed Zarautz in the Basque country in northern Spain on our way to France which is where we started in September 2017. We have travelled around the coast of Spain and Portugal in just 84 days short of one year, visiting at least 73 towns or cities. And we are keen to keep going!!

We have driven 11,152 miles spending approximately €2500 on fuel which averages out at £0.23 per mile, with prices ranging from €1.05 (about £1) a litre to €1.40 (about £1.30); we have spent approximately €18.50 a night on campsite fees including electricity and approximately €200 a month on tourism which we have classed as visiting monuments, castles, palaces, ruins and historic houses.

 

We have been to the very southern point of Spain (Cap Vincent), the most easterly point of mainland Portugal in Cabo de Roca (outside Sintra) and now close to the most northern point of Spain (which is O Porto de Bares in the county of A Corúna). We have been up mountains in the Sierra Navada, been down the bottom of deep valleys in the Ronda and on very flat plains in Zaragosa as well as on cliff top sites in the jagged northern coast. We have been 500m above sea level in the mountains, and in caves at sea level.

 

We have learned how to speak in Spanish but gave up learning Portuguese as it resembled Russian! We have eaten all sorts of different foods not normally found in the UK; liver and bacon in a sandwich being the oddest but tastiest! Nibbles varied from pinchos in the north, to tapas in the south to racions in the west; we have drunk red and white wines in Rioja, port in Porto, sherry in Jerez, beers in Basque Country and sidre in Cantabria.

We have met some lovely British people on the way and found the Spanish to be friendly, the Brazilians even more friendly, the French snooty and the Dutch inquisitive. Samson has always been a source of entertainment to everyone, if we had charged €1 for each photo taken of the rig, we would be millionaires by now!!! we have only met one or two other fifth wheelers but this week, in France, we have met a Swiss couple with a German equivalent! Two touring fifth wheels on one site is unusual so it created lots of interest!

However, we have enjoyed the weather, sunny and warm along the south coast running up to December, wet during our three months in Cadiz, wet and windy throughout our stay on the Atlantic coast and into the Bay of Biscay’s northern coastline, so the SOUTH WINS!!! As the sun shines mainly in the South, guess where we will be heading now??? Correct, Southern France then Italy!! ‘,

« Older posts Newer posts »