Travel stories of a caravan duo, plus a 5th Wheel and Isuzu truck in Europe

Category: Churches (Page 3 of 7)

Castles and Cobbles in Spain

Following a short travel hiatus, we are on the move again, just us two and Benny the car. Bessy will be enjoying a sunny holiday in storage in Torrevieja until the summer.

David and I have left Torrevieja for a few months to relight our travelling wanderlust, starting with a return to the UK for essential services, Doctor, MOT, dentist etc. Our route up to the ferry has taken us from the Alicante area, north through the La Mancha wine region to Toledo, north through Madrid to the Duero wine area then up to Santander. This post is a diary of our journey. Our next post should be from Dubai or Vietnam, fingers crossed 🤞.

Driving up from Alicante towards Albacete, we were surprised by the number of roadside castles and forts, all stunningly perched on hilltops, surrounded by rows of heavily trimmed grape vines, pink blossoming almond trees and white blossom cherry trees. Some castles were surrounded by windmills perched on the crest of the hills.

Our route north

TOLEDO – World Heritage Site

Fact: there are over 20 churches, chapels and synagogs, one Cathedral and one Mosque as well as several convents in Toledo, thanks to its Christian, Islamic and Judaism roots and more recently Catholic influence, that’s almost one on every street corner. This partly walled medieval city is heaving with tiny cobbled streets, steep hills and ancient buildings, dating back to Roman times (128BC) and the old areas still exist within this modern looking clean city. The Jewish Quarter is full of dusty workshops with monacled men in waistcoats tapping away at silver jewellery and tea sets, as well as the famous Toledo steel knives. Toledo is also famous for its silk and the hand made roof tiles found throughout the City, AND, its very narrow streets!

The centre is dominated by a huge Gothic cathedral, a large college and so many architecturally stunning buildings all accessed through streets so narrow that locals have permanent scrapes on the rear wheel arches of their cars. Taxis whizz around the streets, buzzing through strolling tourists without any problems, at night the traffic can only be described as manic until 9pm, when locals are jam packed in restaurants and the streets become the opposite – deadly quiet. The only constant noise is the rushing of the Tagus river.

At night the buildings took on an ethereal look, cool and calming yet bright and invitingly stunning.

Cathedral Tower at night

Here’s one for the ladies, a snapshot of several exquisite Llaudro ornaments!

Price tags, a tad over €25,000!!!

SANTA MARIA DE LA VID MONASTERY

It was recommended to us that we stop halfway between Madrid and Burgos on our way to the Ferry Port, and what a lovely stop it was. After a long day walking the streets of Toledo, we experienced relaxation and quiet at this ex Monastery Hotel, in a little village way off the beaten track.

In the Duero valley, right on the Duero River, the monastery was originally founded in 1152 and was run by a Dominican Order until the mid 1800s when it closed for a few decades. Opening again by the Order of St Augustine it was run until 1991, closing with plans to change its use to a hostelry and conference centre, retaining the working church and various museums which are open to the public.

To top it off, next door was a Bodega and restaurant offering the most amazing wine and food! We stopped there during the area’s Tapas Route, this was their contribution, a crispbake with the lightest ever jamon topped with a fresh salsa and violet mayonnaise……simply heaven!

In the late afternoon, the Monastery was open for a tour, despite it being fully in Spanish, I thoroughly enjoyed the peace, tranquility and splendour of the building.

Dinner that night was outstanding, cheese pancake to start, cook your own steak…. but Dessert was the highlight. I couldn’t decide between Green Apple sorbet with a coconut foam or Violet ice cream so we ordered both!!

Next stop, Santander Ferry!!

Liverpool Cathedral(s)

You probably know of our love of anything old and our desire to learn all about the history of a city or town, well, how could we stay in Liverpool (to help Caity set up home) and not visit the two cathedrals?? Impossible!

However, we were disappointed to find that both Cathedrals were modern!

Our first visit to the Anglican Cathedral confirmed that it was primarily built between 1904 and 1924, delays caused mainly by the world War 1, but during bitterly cold weather on 20th February 1942, Sir Giles Scott (aged 22 in 1903 when his design was chosen) placed the final stone on the final ‘finial’ at the top of the tower, three hundred and thirty one feet one and half inches (101 metres) above the Cathedral floor. Some interesting facts:

  • Length: 188.7 m (619 ft)
  • Area: 9,687.4 sq. m (104,275 sq. ft)
  • Choir Vault: 35.3 m (116 ft)
  • Nave Vault: 36.5 m (120 ft)
  • Height of Tower: 100.8 m (331 ft)
  • Under Tower Vault: 53.3 m (175 ft)
  • Tower Arches: 32.6 m (107 ft)
  • Bells: (height above ground) 67.0 m (219 ft)
  • Bells: (weight) 31.5 tonnes (31 tons).

Inside the church are several modern art displays, currently the Doves of Peace.

Installation of the organ began in 1923. When the organ was completed in 1926 it was the largest musical instrument ever conceived, and, since the installation of the additional Central division in 2007, it continues to be the largest pipe organ in the UK.

Tracey Emin, the artist writes: “The Church has always been a place, for me, for contemplation. I wanted to make something for Liverpool Cathedral about love and the sharing of love. Love is a feeling which we internalise; a feeling very hard to explain. I thought it would be nice for people to sit in the Cathedral and have a moment to contemplate the feelings of love, it’s something we just don’t have enough time to think about and I hope this work creates this space in time.” Liverpool Echo, September 2008

Then we took a ten minute walk to the other side of the hill, to the Catholic Church. Again, this is modern, work started on it in 1962 and it was completed 5 years later.

View of the Anglican church from the steps of the Catholic church!

Hope Street connects the two churches, the street is named after William Hope, a merchant whose house stood on the site now occupied by the Philharmonic Hall, rounded building on the left.

Some beautiful architecture around the local streets, include this street art called ‘A Case History‘ created by artist John King, is a collection of static suitcases which pay tribute to those who have both passed through the city and stayed to make it their home.”

Philharmonic Hall, Liverpool - Wikipedia

And finally, Chinatown! Compared to London’s Chinatown this was very disappointing, we were expecting bars, shops, restaurants, half a mile long, chatter, smells and noise. Nothing! A few closed restaurants, and a Freemason’s lodge, and that was it…..

Benny says “Bora Da”

We decided to give Bessy and Benny some Welsh air and try to learn bit of Welsh language so we booked them into a campsite in Rhos on Sea, just outside Llandudno.

I say a campsite, but it was just a field on a working farm, but a great base to start touring. We had a day out with Benny and visited a few castles and Snowdonia National Park, 100 miles round trip with the top down was amazing on a lovely sunny day.

Another day out was a little further afield to Porthmadog for a surprise meeting with family and then to Portmeirion for an afternoon wandering the Italianate gardens, a paddle in the seawater pools then another beautiful drive back through the Welsh Mountains.

We’ve also spent some time in Llandudno itself, a pretty coastal resort with a long long pier!

Our Castle Day – Conwy

First stop was Conwy Castle, a complete walled city within the Castle walls. We walked around the inner streets, and had a quick look at the walls (which needed some attention in places!!) but it was far too hot to do the complete walk around the walls.

Its considered a fortress, built by King Edward I and his architect Master James of St George who built both castle and walls in a barely believable four years between 1283 and 1287. In the distance rise the craggy mountains of Snowdonia and spread out below are the small harbour and narrow streets of Conwy – still protected by an unbroken 1,400-yard (1.3km) ring of town walls. It has World Heritage status, along with 3 other castle in Wales.

Next Stop Bangor

This small cathedral city is known for so many things:

  1. being the oldest city in Wales
  2. it has the longest (retail) High Street in Wales at 1.265 km (0.79 mile)
  3. in 2021 has the world’s first non-binary (elected) Mayor – and at 23 years old, was the youngest Welsh Mayor ever elected.
  4. has the second longest pier in Wales, 460 metres.
  5. In 1967, the Beatles were in Bangor meeting the Maharishi Mahesh Yogi when they learned of the death of their manager Brian Epstein.
  6. Singer Duffy was born here in 1984.
  7. The town is mentioned in the Fiddler’s Dram 1979 hit single “Day Trip to Bangor”.

We headed down to the pier which looks across the Menai Strait towards Anglesey and admired the scenery. The pier was opened in 1893 and after several closures, mainly due to expensive repair costs, it was sold to the County Council in 1974, who gave it a Grade II Listed building status and secured its future. The British Listed Buildings inspector considered it to be “the best in Britain of the older type of pier without a large pavilion at the landward end”. Restoration work took place over several years, and the pier was re-opened to the public on 7 May 1988, however it’s now in need of more work……

We crossed the Menai Bridge into Anglesey

Anglesey – Beaumaris and Penmon Point

We landed in Anglesey and turned right, towards the Eastern point of the Island.

Beaumaris is a small seaside town full of cafes, restaurants and take aways, all catering for the visitors to the castle.

Beaumaris Castle is famous as the “greatest castle never built” . It was the last of the royal strongholds created by Edward I in Wales – and perhaps his masterpiece.

Here Edward and his architect James of St George took full advantage of a blank canvas: the ‘beau mareys’ or ‘beautiful marsh’ beside the Menai Strait. By now they’d already constructed the great castles of Conwy, Caernarfon and Harlech. This was to be their crowning glory, the castle to end all castles.

The result was a fortress of immense size and near-perfect symmetry. No fewer than four concentric rings of formidable defences included a water-filled moat with its very own dock. The outer walls alone bristled with 300 arrow loops.

But lack of money and trouble brewing in Scotland meant building work had petered out by the 1320s. The south gatehouse and the six great towers in the inner ward never reached their intended height. The Llanfaes gate was barely started before being abandoned.

So the distinctive squat shape of Beaumaris tells of a dream that never quite came true. Still it takes its rightful place on the global stage as part of the Castles and Town Walls of Edward I World Heritage Site.

Because this castle is special – both for the scale of its ambition and beauty of its proportions. Gloriously incomplete Beaumaris is perhaps the supreme achievement of the greatest military architect of the age.

A huge imposing building, looking out onto the Estuary was built by Joseph Hansom and Edward Welch, architects of York, and completed in 1833, for the Corporation of Beaumaris. The terrace was the centrepiece of a plan to regenerate the declining port of Beaumaris by creating a fashionable resort. Now it is a Grade 1 Listed Georgian property with several large residential “town houses” and holiday accommodation.

Traditional fish and chip lunch over, we headed out to Penmon Point, the most Easterly point of Anglesey. Locally known as Black Point, it is home to one of Anglesey’s 5 lighthouses and Puffin Island, in the 6th century the island was home to a monastery, now it is just a bird and animal sanctuary.

Llanfairpwll…….. OK I give up!

We doubled back through Beaumaris and went to the town with the longest name in the world – 58 charachters!!

The full name is Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch, which was created so its railway station would have the longest sign in the country—in the mid 1800s. It means “St. Mary’s Church in the hollow of white hazel near a rapid whirlpool and the Church of St. Tysilio near the red cave.”

Been there!

Caernarfon Castle

We returned to the mainland and turned right, heading to Caernarfon Castle. Being the place where Prince Charles was inaugurated in 1969, we thought we would book the tour of the castle, expecting it to be full of historic artifacts. We were disappointed, it’s an outline of the building, with only a museum for the Welsh Fusiliers.

The small market town was also disappointing, very run down with lots of charity shops. However, it’s one ticked off the list, Caernarvon Castle.

We then took a slow drive thrugh the Snowdonia National Park and realised why we loved living in Wales, it’s green, lush, sparkling, colourful, beautiful!

After a long day out, we returned back at Bessy tired but in awe of the Welsh beauty!

Bessy visits Devon and Somerset

After a few weeks of down sizing, from Samson to a 2 bedroomed flat and then to a caravan, we were ready to set off! Space is not something we can say Bessy has plenty of but we managed to pack away summer and winter clothes, an awning, laptop and some family tree paperwork (just in case I needes something to do!).

After negotiating A1M diversions and then the M25, we arrived mid afternoon in Abbey Wood, South London. Surprisingly, the warden asked if we had been before, he remembered me! I said “yes but in a 5th wheel!” Fame at last!!!

Stop 1 of our new travels was a short stay in Kent to meet up with friends, Angela and I had a good chat and David and Peter had a good drink!! Peter is a whisky man and David is a bourbon man so they used the evening to test a Welsh whisky that had been finished in bourbon barrels, given to David by his niece. This was compared to a Scottish whisky, and an American bourbon, so a good night followed a delicious BBQ.

Cheers me dears!

Stop No 2 was at Chertsey right on the River Thames. On Saturday we visited a local riverside hostelry for a refreshing glass of something before returning to the campsite, which was full of weekend campers trying to offload kids, unpack and put up tents, feed kids, sleep then pack it all away the next day! Very stressful watching!

Our riverside views.

Sunday was a gloriously sunny day, we noted the skies above were devoid of airplanes from 11.00am onwards – realised that President Boden was due to visit Queenie in Windsor that afternoon, dropping in for afternoon tea, so they must have cleared the skies for his helicopter to land without any bother!

We had a lovely catch up and long lunch in a riverside pub in Staines before returning to our abode for the night.

Sandra & David
Benny & Bessy in Sunny Chertsey

We hit the M3 on Monday morning, the sat nav telling us that the journey to Stop 3 was only 3 hours and 10 minutes, all was fine until we came off the M3 and hit the A303!!! Then our speed was an average 7 miles per hour! So slow we were able to take photos from inside the car of people wandering around Stonehenge….

5 and a half hours later, our aching bums arrived at Twelve Oaks farm outside Newton Abbot, Devon! A privately run site, working farm with cows, sheep, chickens, and toilets and showers that have won awards for Superloos for several years in a row!

We managed to fit in a swim in their outside heated pool.

Our pitch at Twelve Oaks Farm

Newton Abbot was a strange town, the old animal market had been rebuilt into flats, the high street was boringly filled with charity and cheap shops and a large supermarket dominated this very boring town, made famous by its small horse racing course outside town. However, the odd building jumped out at me….

The old library building in Newton Abbot

Our stop in this area was to catch up with friends Carlos and Wendy, who took us out to more cultural places, thankfully!

Coffee shop in Totnes, posing as an antiques and art gallery cum coffee and tea shoppe.
The coffee came with homemade Bakewell Tart……..ok I did order it! Check out the china and cutlery though!

We explored the small boutique shops in uphill and downhill Totnes, our calves did not thank us the next day, not being used to steep hills!

We had a day out to a small village called Stoke Gabriel, narrow winding lanes into the village and smaller narrow winding lanes out, but well worth it. Lunch was at a Dart Riverside “shack” with the most amazing food, which we then walked off around the local church yard and grounds. The local gardens were full of beautiful coloured flowers that were full of bees and butterflies.

Wendy and me, stuffed to the hilt!
The River shack had its own animal watering holes 🙂
The River Dart at low tide.

There has been a church on the hill overlooking Stoke Gabriel Creek for over one thousand years. A church was listed in the Domesday survey of 1086, and at that time there was a yew tree in the churchyard already thought to be several centuries old. Today that yew tree is between 1200 and 1400 years old, making it amongst the oldest trees in Britain, its boughs grew down and re-rooted itself forming a covered walkway around the trunk.

Legend says that if you can walk around the tree backwards seven times without stumbling you will have a wish granted. I tried; it’s harder than it sounds!

The legend is remembered in this verse:

Walk ye backward round about me
7 times round for all to see
Stumble not and then for certain
One true wish will come to thee

The refurbished 15th century interior has several pews that were specifically built for local families that donated large amount of money, several gravestones mention the family name of “Churchward”, one such family. The organ was first mentioned in history in 1880 when the building was extended to add a heating stove and an organ pipe to the current harmonium. It was refurbished in 1960 but replaced with a more modern organ in 2010.

The 15th-century screen

The best part of Stoke Gabriel Church is the 15th-century oak screen separating the nave and the chancel, the screen is decorated with painted panels depicting Old Testament prophets and New Testament saints. It is pointed out that the prophets are shown wearing Tudor caps, assuming the artists were obviously portraying the figures from their knowledge of contemporary clothing.

Next stop was to meet an old school friend in Taunton, Somerset, staying on a Cider farm. Don’t get excited, the weather was not great and the farm was quiet, the owners kept well away and we saw no activity except the growing apples in the Orchard. However, we had lots of visitors during our stay, very friendly colourful peacocks and white pea hens, guinea fowl, rabbits and a friendly loving cat, who found a hot spot on my lap for over an hour!

After a “stuffing” at the local pub on Sunday, we took a walk alongside the canal that runs through Taunton, and encountered more beautiful wildlife.

We left Taunton after one day, heading north for stop number 5 on the outskirts of Birmingham, the Clent Hills.

Jaipur Jaunts

Of course it’s an everyday event, out walking on an evening stroll, colourful event passes by, it can only be a groom on his white stallion, heading to his wedding. What else?? Surrounded by a dozen brightly dressed men carrying umbrellas lit with coloured flashing lights, a troupe of dancing women and an even more colourful loud band. Of course its normal…..We were both invited to dance with the ladies, but kindly declined, didn’t want to show off our flamenco skills ?.

Jaipur, was named the Pink City when it was painted pink (the colour of Indian hospitality) in 1876 in honour of a visit by the Prince of Wales and Queen Victoria.

More than 150 years on, its now only got what you would call a pinky orange hue amongst the dirt and debris in this busy city. It is a walled city, established in 1690, the walls were to protect it from enemies and wild animals. Now its 7 gates cause huge bottlenecks as people, bikes, motorbikes, taxis, tuktuks and busses try to get through the tight single vehicle archway, all honking at the same time! Traffic moves eventually but whilst stationary, vehicles and their passengers are bombarded with requests to buy teatowels, coconuts, trinkets or donate cash to beggars who won’t take “no” for an answer!

Our first stop was to a temple just outside the city called the Monkey temple. It involved a gentle climb up a ravine passing several smaller temples and natural pools created by mountain water. At the top, in the very small temple, is an image in the rock that looked like a monkey a few 100 yeats ago, especially now the monkey has been painted on! The idea is to be blessed in this temple (for good health), jump into the pool outside, go to the next (elephant) temple, be blessed for happiness and jump into the 2nd pool outside, then go to the last temple, for all the gods, be fully blessed and jump into the last pool. I participated in the final blessing only, the man inside was patient and explained everything but kindly declined a swim in the murky green pools!

We checked into our hotel in Jaipur, a 5star Heritage hotel, full of marble floors, wooden furniture and smart staff. This is our first “expensive “ hotel, others have been 3 star, but this was recommended to us. I must say that our version of 3 star and 5 star vary differently to the Indian versions ?. A wooden 4 poster bed, large shower, western toilet with toilet paper are great but the window was sellotaped shut, the view was almost blocked off with the external plaster decoration as you can see below, the nets were so heavy and the room was shaded and was definitely on the 5 star level that we are used to! We have requested a balcony at our next hotel, we need some sunlight on our skin and fresh air in our room, albeit dusty air!

We spent the morning at the 17th century Amber fort, high up on a hill. It was built as a palace surrounded by a fortified town. The walls of the fortification are still visible on the mountains, as are the older and original buildings used by the royal family before the Fort was built. Its large, impressive, ornate in places and was well used in its time. Elephants were used to ferry visitors up to its gates, still in operation today for lazy tourists. We walked up, fascinated by the interior decoration, which is often described as “romantic”…….”interestingly built and beautifully decorated” would be our description.

Next was the Maharaja’s burial place, a peacefully cool structure, made up of three different areas, we had no guide here so couldn’t work out whose mausoleum belonged to who, the link between information + tourism = more tourists + more income has yet to be made! However it was beautiful and cool on a sunny afternoon and the carvings on the marble were exquisite.

That evening we ate Italian!!!!! Staying in hotels has it’s downside, the hotel menus cater for tourists and offer the same things, so we were getting a little tired of chicken tikka, masalas and biryanis. David found a restaurant called Little Italy, totally vegetarian but we had the most divine meal – and huge portions!!! Bruschetta and garlic mushrooms to start, pesto pasta, pizza and the most unusual salad ever, it came with a bowl of mixed leaves, tomatoes and dressing, and then a plate of grilled asparagus (my favourite), roasted tomato, ravioli parcels, crostini and parmesan chips!!!! AND balsamic vinegar, no curry spices in sight or smelling range! Ohhh, did I mention they served WINE too? We were heavenly stuffed that night ??

Afterwards we took a tuktuk back to the hotel, in what the owner called “a poorly machine”, he had to get out and push start it and kept revving it as we came to a junction….he so wanted our custom that he kept telling us it was “fine now” and how he was a “careful driver” which he was. It was a colourful journey at night, the city’s Albert Hall museum was awash with colour as was the Wind Palace, and the market streets, even at 11pm.

The Lake Palace

Next day was a full day in the city. Firstly we visited the City Palace which is still in use by the current royal family. Its a complex of courtyards, buildings and gardens, enlarged over the past 100 years but still in keeping with the Mughal architecture. On close inspection, certain areas were lacking attention to the deterioration, i will inform Her Maj. The Throne Room was lavishly decorated, still used when dignitaries (such as The Strattons) visit or during festivals, sadly no photos allowed, Her Maj was having a bad hair day.

Next to it are gardens called Jantar Mantar (such lovely words, David kept saying it over and over), gardens created in 1728 that look like a collection of odd structures but they are in fact buildings to measure astronomical time, date, latitude and longitude and the position of stars and the solar system. Its name is Sanskrit for “instruments of calculations” which is exactly what we found. Could not figure out why so many, or who thought them up, I’m sure Mr Google would confirm.

We fought our way through several streets of traders to enter the rear of the Wind Palace (Hawa Mahal), we actually thought we were lost so we followed a group of Indians who finally found the entrance! What’s wrong with doors off the main drag???
This was to be worth the subterfuge, this gem of a building was so beautiful, almost fairytale in its design. It was constructed in 1799 by the Maharaja to allow his Royal ladies to look out onto the world and watch the activities below. The honeycomb windows, made of pink sandstone are, in certain areas, filled with coloured glass, but the designs allowed wind to blow through, doing away with the need for water to cool interior rooms. It would have been an issue to pump it to the top of the 5 floors so the natural wind solved the problem. Both during the day and at night, its a pretty stunning building!

Finally we visited another temple on a hill, sat amongst the more modern part of town, glass office buildings surrounded by hoardings advertising health care or private schools. The temple was once again a chilled marble building, peace amongst the chaos, beautifully carved marble pillars and cornices.
Jaipur is another chaotic city that has lost it’s colour but hasn’t lost its vibrancy.

Next stops – Pushkar & Jodhpur

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