Travel stories of a caravan duo, plus a 5th Wheel and Isuzu truck in Europe

Category: History (Page 12 of 20)

A Big Birthday in Barcelona

A beer in Barcelone before Brunch? Don’t mind if I do!!

So, this year, 2019, was a big one for a certain person……although I keep telling him “he’s in Africa…….in denial (in De Nile)”. He didn’t want any fuss, (unlike his 50th in Barcelona when he was so smashed he couldn’t remember much of the weekend) so no guests, no visitors, no surprise party, just me and him. And so it was!

Dinner on the day.

We actually had some fun on our own, we booked a short notice hotel as the site we were on was only 50 minutes away but the coach journey from the site entrance to the Centre of Barcelona was a bargain price of €5.25 each!! The Hotel was just off the Rambla, right near a Metro station so we really got down and dirty with the locals and took the bus and Metro before checking into our hotel. Lunch was on the hoof as we walked up to the top of the Rambla and off to the right to find the Sagrada Familia Gaudi Cathedral, a long walk punctuated by stops at cafes, shops and tabacs to do bits of shopping, buy coffees and keep warm, on this grey day. Although the temperature was about 15c, we had a cold wind blowing and grey clouds overhead threatening a rainshower. Thankfully this didn’t happen.

We booked tickets at the Gaudi Cathedral for 3.00pm entrance, and came out at 5pm! If ever you want somewhere spectacular to go, I can highly recommend this building, it’s such an unusual cathedral, like nothing we have ever seen before. Despite being full of tourists, the Cathedral had an ethereal feel, quiet and so warm, full of sunlight and a multitude of colours from all the windows in the ceiling. We got a lift to the top of one of the towers, and walked back down the narrow spiral staircase, stopping off to admire the city views at various points where bridges connect to other towers, but it was the interior that fascinated me, the whole building told a tale at different sides and points, a story of birth and death, love, resurrection, betrayal and afterlife.

After tapas and a drink, and then a short recuperation (snooze), we headed out to a local restaurant just off the Rambla that had caught David’s eye earlier, a steak and burger place that stored some of their meat in a dry storage unit to mature it; when we ordered he did order the 45 day dry aged steak and I ordered just a normal one. Mine, despite being well cooked, was much more juicy than David’s medium cooked steak, although both were extremely tasty. David was serenaded by a group of visiting musical minstrels while we were eating, whih was funny. We enjoyed a great bottle of Rioja and some fun with the staff who spoke very little English but understood that it was David’s birthday so offered him a free glass, just the glass (it was stamped with the name of the vineyard), but I forgot to pick it up!

So we headed a few door along where we spotted a bar, opened only 9 months ago, and run by a Portuguese lady called Vieja (vee-eka). The bar had been in operation since 1910, and everything inside was original, and she was an expert in cocktails!

We slunk out of the bar and managed to stagger the two doors along to our hotel, some time much later. I recall trying several different cocktails off the menu but towards the end she asked what spirits we liked and made them up for us…..I think!!! Some, in honour of David’s birthday, were spectacular, sparklers and lights were involved, as was much tequila, vodka, passion fruits, rum, bourbons and the odd plate of crisps and nuts!! Just to say that at about 5am, David stuggled to find the ensuite bathroom, so we had a great night with Vieja!!!

The next day we strolled down to the Marina area after a full Irish breakfast (Irish sausages, bacon, black pudding, mushrooms, eggs, beans….the works!!!) before walking the whole of the Rambla, admiring the street artists, Japanese tourists with their cameras and face masks, and the old buildings along the way. Before we caught the coach back, we stopped at a coffee shop, had coffee and orange juice and suddenly felt human again! A very odd sensation!!!

An Ode to Bourbon, written by our good friends Brenda and Mike!! Fabulous!!

Photos of Familia Sagrada Basilica (Cathedral) – which will hopefully be completed in 2027 with the erection a total of 18 towers, 12 are currently built, the rest are in progress.

Exterior of Familia Sagradi Basilica
View of the internal staircase on the tower, it went on and on and on…..
The creative artwork over one of the entrances….

Some examples of the stunning colourful bright interior…..

And now, for the evening…….

Being serenaded!!!
Cocktail no 1, called A Bearded Lady, with a passionfruit topping filled with crackling cinnamon bark.
No 2, a straightforward vodka and champers based drink….
A boilermaker for David.
A cocktail complete with a sparkler, just for the birthday boy!
This was called El Cortorsionista Chino, it was delicious!!
This one glowed, called a Pisco Sour!

Clearing our heads the next day, admiring the scenery.

The Marina.

Paella Day & San Abad Festival in Benicassim

At the end of January each year, and has been the tradition for the past 26 years, Benicassim is invaded by locals from the town itself and from Castellon, to celebrate the end of the San Antonio Abad and Santa Agueda festival, which lasts just over a week. The paellas as primarily “Valencian”, consisting of pork, chicken, rabbit and vegetables but some restaurants offer the seafood paellas, which have to be pre-booked and ordered.

The festival of San Antonio Abad is held in January and has become a major local event and Benicassim continues this Valencian tradition where domestic and farm animals are the main stars.  During the day, a parade of different species of animals is held then the animal’s owners ask for holy protection, which is awarded by the giving of blessed cakes or sweets.  Floats are dressed in traditional “old fashioned” clothing and markets are held showcasing traditional crafts such as jam making, lace work, wrought iron work, woodwork etc.

Each day over a week, bulls from local farmers are brought into the town, allowed to run 50 metres from their captive vehicle to a small temporary bull ring, where the owner and matadors show off their bull fighting skills.  Thankfully the animals are not injured or killed, just tired out!  The children are encouraged to partake in mock bull runs, and the Matadors are just youngsters practising their skills.

Fire crackers are let off regularly during the festival, to mark the start of processions to the monastery on the hill, or the start of the bull run at 2.00pm, or the start of a show. 

Music and dance are also in abundance every night, free concerts and sports activities are organised by the Council and are well supported.

Paella Day

Friday 22nd started at 7am with a 30 minute herald of fireworks, followed by the lighting of large bonfires in a square at the top of town, outside the Police Station!! For the princely sum of €1, you were given a plate with 3 raw sausages, a chunk of bread, a sachet of garlic mayonnaise and a plastic cup, which was for either beer or wine, refillable as long as the supplies lasted. Everyone either took long metal skewers or grill trays to cook their sausages over the fires, and people stood around talking, eating and drinking.

Cooking breakfast
Mary enjoying her sausages.
Cees enjoying his beer.
A local, setting up her breakfast baps!

At 11am, a bar on the high street opens and with each beer or wine purchased people are given a party hat.  We were in the opening queue along with a group of others from the campsite, keen to get a decent party hat.

Sand piles delivered by the Council.
Getting ready for the day.
Some just preferred to play in the sand!

Overnight the Council deposited small piles of sand in the streets a metre or two apart, larger piles of sand were placed outside the restaurants and at midday, people can go to set points and collect a sack of wood and a 3 pronged metal stand for their paella dishes. 

Party hats on display

The council also provide a supply of tables and chairs, but some people bring their own, or just plonk their goods on the pavements and park their bums on the floor.

The fires are lit after midday and the streets filled with smoke, but the smells were amazing.  Firstly oil is heated, onion and garlic are added, then meat, then stock by the litres, then rice.  The smells after an hour or so made your mouth water, and the smoke made your eyes water!

Bonterra Park’s paella dish.
Preparing the tables.
Lets get cooking….
Table for 200 Sir? No problem.

Bonterra Park had organised a street table, 200 people from the camp site, all seated by 2pm!  It was brilliantly orchestrated and such good fun.  We sat down to a bowl of salad each, then a helping of traditional Valencian paella with fresh crusty bread, as much water and wine as you would want, then fresh Valencian oranges for dessert.  The sun shone, people talked across the table and strangers became acquaintences, a great afternoon overall.

Afterwards, we left the table and wandered up the high street through the town, the number of people either having eaten, still eating, still cooking or starting to cook was unbelieveable!  Some estimate over 1000 paella fires were on the go with 35,000 people in attendance, with entertainment at most street corners, in the form of a singing drag queen, or bands, or music blasting from restaurants.  It wasn’t noisy, it was simply a wonderful form of organised oral chaos!

Any street corner will do…

Later, the music filled the streets, the smoke filled your nose and clothes, and everyone was chilled and relaxed.  It was such an interesting event, it had to be experienced to be believed.

The festival ended on Sunday evening with a group of 20 men dressed as devils, parading through the streets with catherine wheels on their forks and firecrackers going off everywhere.  The men finally stopped at the bottom part of the high street and danced under a shower of fireworks.  Thankfully they all had protective clothing on!

The light, smells and smoke were once again amazing but the finale, was a 20 minute firework display in a car park just outside town. 


The Magic Mountain in Barcelona!

The day we decided to visit Barcelona, it rained!  It became cloudy, overcast and very cold but that didn’t stop us.  What did stop us was the fact that all tickets that day, for entrance to the Sagrada Familia cathedral, were sold out! We just wandered around it, gawping just like a proper tourist!  I will return one day to see inside….

So we decided instead to explore Mount Tibidabo, a mountain just behind Barcelona, which at 515m above sea level is the tallest in the range of mountains surrounding the city.  The funicular train is the oldest in Spain, dating back to 1901, and although the journey itself takes no more than 10 minutes and you feel like you are travelling miles, vertically you travel only 1km! The funfair at the top gives it it’s name of Magic Mountain.

At the top is the fun fair, only certain rides were open on this particular day. Behind the fun fair is the Romanesque fortress (or crypt) topped with a fairly new (in church terms) catholic church and minor basilica called the Temple del Sagrat Cor, a Gothic cathedral started in 1902 and completed in 1961 on several levels with foot access to the towers, the highest being 575m above sea level.  The crypt consists of 5 naves decorated by beautiful and colourful mosaics. 

We took a lift up to the viewing platform, through the main church, then we walked the remaining 150 steps to the very top of the tower, coming out underneath the bronze statue of the Sacred Heart and surrounded by the 12 apostles!  It was blowing a hoolie, freezing cold and occasionally spitting with rain, so although we took panoramic photos we didn’t stay there long!

External images of Sagrada Familia

Unusual Buildings in Barcelona

Tibidabo Funicular, Crypt & Fun Fair

Views from the Viewing platform half way up…..

Going up higher and watching clouds roll in…….

Catalonia Steam Train Museum

We spent a few hours at this amazing place in Vilanova iLa Geltru, just south of Barcelona.  It tells of the history of steam trains around Spain.  Sadly we had to leave quickly as it started raining heavily, otherwise we would also have photos of the old electric trains imported from Americ and used until more recently.

An explanation of the wheel sizes throughout the years….

One of the old water towers. Some original wooden passenger carriages.

 

Magnificent Montserrat

One grey cold morning in November, we set off to see one of the best monasteries in the Catalan area.   Montserrat is a spectacularly beautiful Benedictine monk mountain retreat about an hour outside Barcelona.  Not only is Montserrat Monastery of significant religious importance but the natural beauty surrounding the monastery is simply breathtaking and is surrounded by some of the most unusual rock formations in the whole of Catalonia.   We were with Mike and Brenda and took the funicular to the top of the mountain, from this point people can follow a number of different walks to different buildings cut into the rocks, all with amazing views.  As it was cold (at 11am it was 7c and 1200m above sea level) and we were not prepared, we refrained from the walks……well, that our excuse!

The history of Montserrat is fascinating and started in 880 when a small group of shepherd children saw a bright light descending from the sky in the Montserrat mountains,as well as hearing angels singing and the music filled their hearts with a radiant joy.

Overwhelmed by the experience the children ran home to frantically recall the experience to their parents. The parents were sceptical but knew their children were trustworthy and honest and so they went to where the children had experienced the visions to see if they could see what all the fuss was about.  For the whole month following the first visitation the parents were also witness to the same heavenly experiences and were left with only one conclusion. The visions were considered to be a sign from God.  A local vicar was brought to the scene and witnessed the same experiences as the children and parents. The visions occurred in the same location in a cave on Montserrat mountain. When this cave was explored by the religious elders of the community they found an image of the Virgin Mary. And from that moment on the cave became a holy sanctuary for religious pilgrims.  The cave became a Holy Grotto which has since been ordained as a holy place and is visited by pilgrims and curious onlookers from all over the world.  At least once in their lifetime, Catalonians do an overnight pilgrimage from their homes to Montserrat to witness the morning sunrise in a spiritual setting.

Views Approaching the Monastery

The Monastery & The Black Virgin

Santa Maria de Montserrat is the Benedictine abbey which hosts the Virgin of Montserrat, the Publicacions de l’Abadia de Montserrat (a publishing house with the oldest press in the world, still running, with the first book published in 1499) and is home to the Escolania, a boys’ choir of sopranos and altos.

The Virgin of Montserrat is a statue of the Virgin Mary and infant Christ, it is one of the black Madonnas of Europe, hence its familiar Catalan name, la Moreneta (“The little dark-skinned one”). Believed by some to have been carved in Jerusalem in the early days of the church, it is a Romanesque sculpture in wood from the late 12th century. Legend has it that the Benedictine monks could not move the statue to construct their monastery, choosing to instead build around it. The statue’s sanctuary is located at the rear of the main chapel, where an altar of gold surrounds the icon.  People stream past it to tough the globe held in her hand……

Fun on the Funicular & Views at the Top

 

 

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