One day we decided to get a train into Jerez de la Frontera, a 10 minute ride away. On arrival, the train station was architecturally stunning, amazing red brick and coloured tile building, built in 1854 it could pass for a Lego building!
Jerez is home to several large sherry bottling factories, including Tio Pepe.
Next we walked through the town to the Alcazar, a Moorish fort, looking like a Castle with Baroque buildings added later. The fort dates back to the 12th century, originally built as a Muslim fortress palace. Lots of arched doorways, water filled cool courtyards and swaying palm trees.
Pretty buildings!In the town’s squareApproaching the AlcazarAlcazar courtyard
The Alcazar became a Christian garrison in 1248 until 1264 when Arabs took it back after building a tunnel underneath to gain access to the enclosures. It returned to Christian hands but fell into disrepair until the 18th century when the Baroque palace was built, repairs were made to the gates, towers, arab baths, pavilion and courtyards, the olive mill was added later. The Diez family who acquired it mid 1800s have improved the cloisters and surrounding parkland, maintained it and to this day family members stay in the house during local cultural events.
One of the old mosque roomsArabic archesThe olive millArabic archesInside the Arabic bathsThe baths were lit by this amazing ceilingThe Baroque palace and gardensView from a towerView of the city from the fort wallsInside the old water tanks
We walked a little around the town, arriving at the Cathedral just as it closed. We stopped for lunch in the sunny town square then took a train back to El Puerto de Santa Maria.
The old market The cathedral was getting ready for Holy WeekA narrow steep side street!The cathedral The side of a bodega building, it was huge!!Lunch in the square
In the (much younger) past, David would spend his birthday with my brother, exploring a city and its beers. Eventually this extended to a long weekend, with more exotic locations and different friends. This year he has opted for a long month in the sherry area of Cadiz and El Puerto de Santa Maria, a place we both love and know from our Samson and Suzi travelling days.
We arrived two weeks ago and have just been joined by some family and friends. We’ve rented an apartment right in the town centre, a 5 minute walk from the highly ornate Basilica which is the central point for all of the town’s Easter Penitence parades. We have a second floor view over a pedestrianised area that leads directly to the Plaza Espana, in front of the Basilica. It was imperative that we introduce them to sherry, a drink usually synonymous with people of an older age but drunk in Spain in this area by every generation so we booked into a tour of the Guiterrez Colosia Bodega, right on the banks of the Guadalete river.
The Sherry Triangle
Historical info first- the sherry vineyards are located in a specific area around Cadiz, created by chalky soil and seawater sediment, dating back to 1100BC when the Phoenicians planted vines, the Romans who established the first quality controls insisted that wines from this area be marked with AAAA but it wasn’t until 1264AD that the Arabs named this area “Sherish” that the word sherry was formed. In the 17th century investors from Holland, Scotland and England boosted production, hence the export and import of the product, assisted by ships built in the port that travelled to other Mediterranean areas and the UK.
Being shown around the barrelsThe flora within a barrelBeing transferred to the bottling containersAn old photo.
We were told that this Bodega was started in 1838, assisted by wind and moisture in the area which created a perfect growing conditions for the Palamino, Moscatel and Pedro Ximinez grapes used in the wines. The proximity to the river ensures the perfect humidity to create a “flora” or natural yeast to ferment to wine further, Sherry is a fortified aged wine, aged using a Solera system. We learned about the old American oak barrels that are anything up to 60 years old and the solera system of mixing ensures a consistent level of quality and taste.
The Guiterrez family took over the Bodega at the beginning of the 20th Century so descendents of Jose Dosal Guiterrez, their great grandfather, still work in the business.
The solera system works by removing a quantity of wine for bottling from the bottom barrels, that quantity is replaced from barrels in the middle row, and the middle barrels are topped up by wines in the barrels on the top row. The top rows are the only ones filled up with new wine, so blending downwards can always produce a consistent product regardless of the uality of the latest years’ crop. However, the barrels are only ever emptied by a third, maximum, so some of the wine in the barrel could be up to 180 years old!!
In 1969 the family bought the Palace of the Count of Cumbrehermosa Cargedor de Indias and extended into the building and cellars, expanding the storage and bottling capacity and also creating a bar and restaurant that promotes and uses its wines within its recipes.
The lunch that followed was accompanied by 6 glasses of sherry, ranging from very dry to dry, sweeter then very sweet. Each course was to be eaten with a specific sherry. An interesting and tasty afternoon out!
Left to right, dry to sweetThe different sherries Scrummy lunch dishes
Today, Friday, is our last day in Bali, we leave our hotel this afternoon for a 19 hour journey back to Manchester, where Graham and Diane head north to Hull and we stay overnight before flying back to Alicante on Sunday morning.
This has been a journey of two halves, a lively cruise and a chilled beachside Hotel. The cruise was brilliant, excellent food and drink, service and staff were amazing, stops at ports were perfectly placed to explore in a day (all except one), the ship was comfortable and could be as busy or as quiet as you wanted and waking every morning to a different view was interesting and refreshing.
The Hotel stay has been the opposite, chilled and relaxing, more suited to a honeymoon visit 😊 The location of the Hotel (on a peninsular and south of the capital Denpasar) plus the time of year we are here meant traffic was beyond chaotic, limiting our touring of the Island. We would liked to have visited Ubud, a spiritual and cultural area north of here, but 3+ hours in traffic to get there was not an option we were prepared to consider. The Hotel is typically Balinese in spirit and style but offers nothing in the evenings except a guitarist or pianist for a few hours between 6 and 9pm, other than that it’s Balinese Bongos from dawn to dusk, a sound that is now driving us mad 😂
I think it’s safe to say we are all pleased to be going home, back to British staples (we’ve missed bacon and sausages this past two weeks!!), our own beds, the cooler weather and a proper cup of strong Yorkshire tea and Spanish coffee!!
Hotel pool, one of them One of the restaurants Beach snowmen 😂A regular visitorAll the ponds are full of beautiful koi carpThe lobbyTraditional Balinese dancers A pool at nightThe Christmas tree, which quickly disappeared on the 1st January!Structures in the hotel gardens A few fresh colourful lobsters.
It has rained whilst we’ve been here, hard, sudden and heavy but then the sun comes right back out and dries up all the rain.
The rain!The empty pool during the rain.DCIM100GOPROGP010166.JPG
Finally, Graham and David managed to fit in a scuba diving day, few pictures showing them preparing to leave, spotting a turtle (as well as other things) and returning very tired. More photos to follow another day!
The ship docked in Benoa Port, Bali a day and night before we had to actually disembark as some cruise guests were heading straight to the airport; we stayed on board that night, enjoyed a last supper with our dining team, last drinks in the Sunset Bar and checked out leisurely before getting a small coach to our Hotel, our home for the next 2 weeks.
The Hotel is called the Nusa Dua Beach Hotel and appears to be in a “secure resort complex” of several luxury hotels, a shopping centre and medical centre all surrounded by beautifully manicured gardens running up to the beach. Within the complex a taxi anywhere is approximately £2.20 regardless of the number of occupants, a set fee! Brilliant idea.
The beach has a walkway all the way along its 14 kilometres, cutting through the grounds of neighbouring hotels and ending up at a peninsular overlooking an area of sea that’s a surfers paradise, beautiful white sandy beaches, clear aqua blue sea and waves out past the bay.
Part of our beachThe cruise we were on leaving the island
We have several speciality restaurants on site and an open buffet restaurant, food in the restaurants is good but the buffet isn’t to the standards we had become accustomed to on the ship. Our rooms are traditionally Indonesian, lots of wooden furniture and marble or stone floors, comfortable enough. We have views over a tropical duck pond, that turned into a lake when it rained!
Entrance lobbyHotel pools
It seems very strange to be in 30c humid temperatures and listening to Carols being sung in Indonesian in a country that doesn’t celebrate Christmas but that’s what has happened. Half the guests in the Hotel were off the cruise ship, so the Hotel has really gone out of its way to help us feel festive.
We had a gala dinner on the night of the 24th December, lots of fresh fish, salads and soups to start. They cooked a whole roast turkey, tried to recreate stuffing (advertised as Bread pudding), cranberry sauce and then a great big BBQ, steak, chicken, fish, prawns etc. They even made mini apple crumbles and an apple strudel with vanilla sauce!
Juliet, Fiona, DianeSome of the food!Yule logs!Graham, David and Jon, 3 NinjasA fun night! Some of the chefs
Christmas Day started with Carol singers at 9am breakfast, local children sung for nearly an hour without song sheets and all in perfect harmony and timing.
Again dinner was a veritable feast, lots of good BBQ’d fish and meat, salads and desserts.
During the day we took a walk along the seafront, to the end of our peninsular bay where there is a small Buddist temple, beautiful beaches and coves and perfect breakwater for surfing, so we spent an hour or so watching the surfers. A very chilled day!!
We didn’t choose our rooms, they were allocated to us as soon as we booked, our only requirement was a balcony, so you can imagine our surprise when we found out that we had probably the best rooms on board! Ours is a corner room with an extra large balcony and rear and side views, Diane and Graham’s is just along the corridor with rear views and we are both on the highest deck, apart from the Gold Card Club Class guests who’ve paid a silly fortune for questionable extras – more padded loungers with cushions, canapés at 5pm, better toiletries and a concierge, but smaller rooms and balconies!!
Celebrity Millenium, our first sightingOur deck!Lounge areaBedroomSingapore skylineOur frequent view
Our rooms are cleaned and replenished twice a day by our friendly Room Attendant Tim who seems to live permanently in our corridor and is always available:) We wondered if he had a buzzer that notified him as soon as we left our room because he kept appearing!
FOOD
Well, where do I start???? Breakfast starts at 7am and finishes 10.30, lunch starts at midday, dinner is from 6pm and 8.15pm for the second sitting in restaurants but self serve restaurants stay open from 7am until 9.30pm when it reduces to snacks, pizzas and burgers all through the night!! Coffee, cakes, ice cream, afternoon tea and small snacks are available somewhere on the ship at any time of day, so you can easily see how the waistline expands on cruises!!!
Lunch times are as well stocked with food as evenings are, cooking stations dish up Chinese, Indian, Malay, American, Roasts, Grilled Meat, Seafood and Fish, Healthy Salads, Soup & Light Bites, Fruit, Desserts and anything else you can think of, some days there is far too much choice!!!
We actually prefer to sit down in one of the restaurants in the evenings, a daily menu offers 5 or 6 starters, 6 to 7 mains and several desserts, there is less choice but we find it easier and nicer. Food is served to the table, its much more leisurely and enjoyable and we always have a laugh with our allocated Waiter Asep (from Bali, with impeccable service manners) and Sommelier Kan (from New Delhi, India).
Our Assistant Waiter is a new recruit called Raymond, this was his first job on a cruise and he was so keen to impress and learn, so I’m sure he has learned a lot from David and Graham, especially about their exact cheese board requirements!!! Cheddar, brie and gorgonzola only, biscuits with butter, seedless grapes and fresh cranberries and a constantly filled glass of Port.
SUNRISES IN PORTS
Most mornings, apart from 3, we rose to different views, some picturesque and green, some misty and very commercial. In our second week, we experienced morning rain most days, sometimes torrential, but it was still between 26 and 30c so humid.
Eventually, we had to disembark, smoothly and orderly, serenaded by a Bali band and waved goodbye by the Captain’s team, it was a sad moment.
We’ve met some lovely people, made new friends, drunk and eaten far too much, learned so much about new cultures, seen different parts of the world, danced a lot and had great fun so our journey ends on a high!
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