Travel stories of a caravan duo, plus a 5th Wheel and Isuzu truck in Europe

Category: Travel (Page 20 of 21)

San Sebastian, Monte Igueldo & Camino de Santiago

The neighbouring town of Donastia San Sebastian is the popular starting point of one of the Pilgrimage routes to Santiago. Traditionally the routes started at the pilgrim’s home and ended at Cape Finnesterre, Spain’s most westerly point. However this route is called the Camino de Santiago and follows the coast from San Sebastian along the Bay of Biscay until it reaches Santiago. Pilgrims who follow this and any other recognised route and can prove they have walked, cycled or travelled more than 200km are awarded a certificate (called a compostela) on arrival at the Pilgrims Office in Santiago. The pilgrim is asked to state whether their motivation for traveling the Camino was “religious”, “religious and other”, or “other”. In 2016, the number of pilgrims arriving in Santiago was recorded as 277,915!

San Sebastian is also home to a weird but wonderful ancient amusement park called Monte Igueldo, which began in 1911 as a social club that had been built on the top of a mount overlooking the town and it’s wonderful horseshoe shaped beach. It became an amusement park in the mid 1950’s, the original social club is now a hotel and the once derelict watch tower has been rebuilt to offer a 360 degree viewpoint over the surrounding coastline, bay and town.

The amusements were closed when we visited, they seemed to be run down and had a spooky air of desertion. The Tower, however, was something special. The inner staircase led up to the very top and the walls were full of old photographs from all eras showing bathers in the 1920’s, lifeguards in the 1930s, changes in the hillside houses over the years and several pictures of the three palaces dotted through the main affluent part of the town.

There is also a funicular railway from the Mount to the beach, again it was not running when we visited, but it is supposed to be the 3rd oldest funicular in Spain after being inaugurated in 1912. The beach is called La Concha and on low tide people can access the small island at it’s mouth.

We visited Miramar Palace, overlooking La Concha Bay, and had to admire the exterior only as the Palace is now a language and music school. The mansion was built in 1887, created to house the Spanish Royal Family when they decided to start spending their summers in San Sebastián. It was built in the ‘Queen Anne English cottage’ style under the direction of the British architect Seldon Wornum, who also designed several mansions in Biarritz and Saint Jean de Luz nearby. It is built in brick and sandstone with timberwork and the landscaped gardens are open to the public.

View of La Concha Bay from the top of the Tower

The wooden roller coaster around a water boat ride.

Miramar Palace.

The enigmatic Miramar Palace.

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We have landed in “Austrian” Zarautz!

We landed in Bilbao to brilliant warm sunshine after a wet rocky night, thankfully the mornings ferry journey turned out to be much smoother. We were one of the first to be off loaded and headed out of the port to open mouthed stares from all the travellers waiting to load onto the ferry for their return back to the UK. Within an hour we were driving up the very steep hill towards our camp site Gran Camping Zarautz to be greeted by the official landing party – Mum and Dad!!!

Waiting to unload!

My first reaction during that hour’s journey from the port of Bilbao to Zarautz was “Oh no, we have arrived in the wrong country…..” All the properties here are built in aa Austrian/Swiss chalet style, and the rolling green wooded valleys simply add to that image. I was expecting the locals to be wearing leiderhosen and speak French and yodelling!! No such luck. We had landed in Basque country where they don’t speak Spanish, they speak Basque!! This is a different dialect altogether so practising Spanish was instantly dismissed and I attempt to speak Spanglish now.

Picked up the new summer car on the A frame, all ready to go! Not really!!

Just before landing.

Dad helping David to celebrate our arrival with a special Bourbon bought for David’s 50th birthday by his mother.

Our first night at the local bar. We were having “just a small one” before dinner.

Chalets, chalets and more chalets!!!

We have spent our first week here settling in, finding our feet and trying to get the hang of the language. We are on a site that is perched right on the top of a very large hill, with it’s own access down to the beautiful long sandy beach. Downside is that it’s a very long way down (I’m told at least 400 steps) and an even longer way back up, we had to get a taxi back from the town the first time we did the walk!! The taxi driver spoke either Basque or French so I managed to chat a bit in Franglish!

The views from our pitch are lovely, overlooking the pathway down to the beach that all the surfers take. Sometimes they are fully dressed in their tight wet suits, such a cute view 🙂

Spectacular Zarautz beach and bay on a sunny day as seen from our site.

However, we have had quite a bit of drizzly rain this past week, curtailing the cliff hikes a little. We have walked the promenade several times after lazily driving the car down the hill, and been to the local farmer’s market where they spotted us “TOURISTS” miles away and decided to charge us €1.50 for 2 potatoes and an onion. David paid for it before realising how expensive it was, and no, it didn’t taste any better than a supermarket potato! The food here is cheaper than in the UK, certainly much tastier and fresher, but also veg and fruit are so much bigger! Check out the salad onions in the local market (pic below).

You are joking?? We are walking all the way down there?? No way!! Wine, you said, well ok then….

OK, half way down and it’s not too bad a walk. I am a little hot and sweaty……

Nearly there,,,,and my knees are like jelly. Now the 0.5km across the covered walkway, then the 2km along the prom! All for a glass of vino tinto.

Mum and Dad took the easy way down, by car!

The prom and bay on a grey day.

The local town square. I’m a sucker for beautiful buildings.

The local rip off market.

Mum and Dad headed off to Portugal after a few days to see friends so we have been exploring the local area on our own. Pictures of our days out to Pamplona and San Sebastion, as well as a visit to the Guggenheim Museum will be added separately.’,

Guggenheim Museum, Bilbao

One rainy day we took a drive to the world famous Guggenheim museum in Bilbao, not only to admire the amazing structure that houses the Museum but to also understand a little about what constitutes “modern art” these days. The nearest car park with spaces was a good mile away so we were able to admire the old ornate Gothic buildings in the town and squares en route.

The building, now in it’s 20th year, was built to suggest fluidity, reminscent of fish scales, making it reflective and see through and this is certainly achieved by the titanium, glass and metal that surround it. The views from any of its 3 floors are so different.

We were engrossed in the ground floor display of massive metal eliptical and spiral structures that are bent and bowed to give the effect of space and dizzying motion, yet it is only the person that is moving, not the structure. Another mind bending display was a neon wall with vertical written flashing writing which when viewed from the 2nd floor almost made you want to jump over the balcony and fall into the flow of the words.

We can tick off the bucket list seeing a real life Andy Warhol painting, the Museum houses the 10 metre long “150 faces of Marilyn Munroe” and we were mesmerised by the 3D films and photos by Bill Viola, but the rest of the displays we really didn’t “get”. How can you call an empty metal box with a hole cut into the top and side “Art”? It was ingeniously entitled “Box with a Hole”, very clever!!! Another artist called Georg Baselitz painted massive (15foot high) pictures of dismembered, fractured soldiers (the works are entitled “Heroes”) but they were all displaying large inappropriate male appendages and I really can’t imagine soliders went to war with their zips flying low!

However, it was a fascinating day out, and we both agree that we are not really fans of “modern art”. Some pictures below of our day out.

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Clocking up Miles in the UK – week 2

Beacon Hill Touring Park, our camp site outside Corfe Mullen.

Our second week was as hectic as the first despite spending a whole week based just outside Corfe Mullen, Dorset, but was just as rewarding. The site we chose was rustic and spacious but had all the facilities we needed, the morning dew made the forests behind our pitch smell so fresh, it encouraged all sorts of mushrooms to grow and we caught glimpses of rabbits and hare running about. The site (Beacon Hill Touring Park) is certainly fantastic for children, plenty of space to run and cycle, climb up hills and trees and explore the woodland playgrounds and lakes. It’s also a ten minute drive into Bournemouth and Poole and not far from the charming town of Wimborne Minster, see night time picture below.

The woods behind our pitch.

The selection of mushrooms that grew nearby.

From here we travelled down to Teignmouth to meet our Spanish friend and his wife and had a wonderful day driving up through country lanes onto Exmoor, passing Hay Tor on the way. Lunch was in a wonderful olde worlde country hotel hidden away in a quaint village where you could have been back in the 1950s with the smell of open log fires and damp wood mixed with fresh clean air and summery honeysuckle flowers. We walked off lunch by crossing the estuary from Teignmouth to Shaldon and watched the fast flowing incoming tide battle with rowers, sailboats and the local ferry. A tasty Spanish casserole with even more wine rounded off a lovely day.

Hay Tor on Exmoor heath

The feeding of faces in Exmoor!!\r\n

We then drove up to Taunton to catch up with my long-term friend, Lynnette and I first met when we were 6 year olds at school in Rhodesia and have remained in touch. Another lovely lunch helped the waistline expand even further!

The weekend culminated in a brilliant BBQ with our respective brothers and their family. Arthur and Tess were joined by their youngest Leanne and her new husband Daniel and their friend Matthew, and Neil and Camilla brought along their latest addition, Millie the spaniel! We all ate and drank far too much but had a good laugh, several trips down memory lane, lots of hugs and a very late night/early morning. Late afternoon was spent meeting up with my other brother Dean and his partner Shawna in Poole Quay, followed by a meal in an Argentinean steak house, probably our 4th or 5th steak during the last 10 days!!

We moved the trailer from Corfe Mullen to Lee on Solent, Gosport for the two nights before our crossing so we were closer to the Portsmouth ferry port. We clocked up another few hundred miles by driving back up to Peterborough to meet up with Robin and Charlotte (who had just returned from a month working in Cape Town) before they fly off on holiday to the Dominican Republic and to spend time with Caity and of course, do a final shop for those essentials you cannot get abroad…….English breakfast tea, TCP, Millicano coffee and most importantly M&S Percy Pig sweets.

Our last morning on British soil turned out to be damp and foggy but the half hour journey to the ferry port was eventless and we arrived to find we were one of the first in the queue but one of the last to board! We were parked right in front of the closed landing gear so we hoped we are one of the first ones off.

The evening part of the crossing was very choppy and we almost didn’t make dinner…..we persevered and the meal was really worth having; crab and langoustine lasagne, white bean soup with goats cheese topped cornbread, tomato tart topped with flowery salad, beef tournedos with pepper sauce and grapes all followed by the sweetest, lightest and tastiest soufflé ever, served with a small Grand Marnier on the side. This certainly helped the stomach settle and encouraged a good night’s sleep!!

We are hoping that our short journey to our first stop at Zarautz in Northern Spain is uneventful and we can finally put our feet up for a while, relax and chill out!

Week One – “Full Timers” and Lessons Learned

I was expecting something of an epiphany to happen last Sunday after we took our last boxes to the lock-up and ‘stuff’ to the charity shop and headed back to the trailer in Cambridge before our first evening meal as “Full Timers” but nothing actually happened. We were not struck by a ‘feeling’, a mood or change of thought…. Nothing feels different at the moment, I still feel like we are on holiday, moving about over this week and next, maybe this will happen when we are static for a month or so…..

“Full Time” is the term applied to those who live in their caravan/ motorhome or trailer 24 hours a day, 7 days a week without the security or back up of a bricks and mortar base. This term applies to us now as the house is packed away into the lock up and is about to be sold. I can see the attraction of the freedom with motorhomers, being able to up and leave when they are tired of the view but we are slightly different and have to consider our size so have to plan our sites ahead carefully.

David performing his duties before leaving Willingham, Cambridge.

However this past week has been adventurous and interesting. We left Willingham, Cambridge (our “parking spot” for the past 18 months) on Monday morning after a lovely long Sunday roast dinner with our neighbours Keith and Jeannie the previous evening. Several bottles of farewell wine were consumed that night, even though we will be seeing Monica (Keith\’s RV), Keith and Jean again within the next few months! Who needs an excuse to down a few glasses of red???

We must say we have enjoyed our time at Willingham, and I can see why people park up there and stay for years. Lovely facilities, lovely staff and we have met some nice people there.

We arrived at Green Hills Leisure Park near Bicester some 2.5 hours later having had an easy drive and booked in for 2 nights. The well maintained site is on a working farm that is open to the public, has various birds and animals roaming about, a few fishing lakes, an onsite tearoom/cafe serving fresh local produce and their own blend of coffee and even an on-site beauty parlour. If only I had done my homework and seen that beforehand, on the Tuesday morning I would have booked a manicure and pedicure instead of watching the local RV engineer establish why we had a water leak and wet lockers. The culprit was found, a dried up mouse that had made a total mess of the foam surrounding the pipework underneath our bed in amongst the shredded paper and acorn leaves he had dragged in. He was ceremoniously flung into the neighbouring field! He had gnawed through a sturdy water pipe which was replaced, also a new gas pipe and a new shower head were installed making us fully operational again.

The culprit before his burial.

Monday night was the night of “the storm”, the tail end of Hurricane Irma from the USA. Luckily we were allocated an RV pitch, tight up against a row of high trees and behind another large motorhome so other than the noise of the wind waking us at 2.30am, we had a good night’s sleep. The wind was certainly talk of the toilet block in the morning.

We headed off on Wednesday morning, leaving the small village we were in, following the usual Tom Tom Sat Nav. David did comment that he thought we would be heading north, but duly followed the directions onscreen…..right through the next tiny village. When I say tiny, I mean weeny tiny, with beautiful overhanging brick and stone houses and an s-bend so tight you couldn’t see round the corner. We had to pass through two buildings that were just about wide enough to take the trailer, at which point the driver (no names of course) sweated profusely and promptly asked why the “Royal We” had not used the heavy duty industrial Motorhome Snooper given to us by my parents that’s fully loaded with our height, width and weight and set to divert us from such stupid villages??? Who knows….. We calmed down, turned on the Snooper, and guess what, we had to turn around and go back through the village!!! Luckily there was a parallel road so we did not need to squeeze through the village walls again. Phew! First lesson learned.

The journey around the M25 was a pleasure, no hold ups and very little traffic. We arrived in Abbey Wood site, via the humped residential back roads and chose a lovely pitch away from the trees. First thing that struck us was the number of conkers on the floor, we didn\’t want them banging on the trailer roof every night and keeping us awake! However the down side was that there is no water on the pitch or on any pitch and we had forgotten to fill up on arrival so we spent some hours ferrying 5 litre buckets of water to fill the tank and have to top it up each day. Lesson 2 learned – book a pitch with water!!

We have had a lovely week in this almost tropical site which is oddly sat right in the middle of chaotic South East London. At Green Hills site we were close to a private airfield, here we are close to City Airport! However all we can see from the trailer are huge trees, squirrels and parakeets and we hear foxes at night. We have spent lovely relaxing times with friends and eating far too much good food! We visited our old house from 20 years ago in Plumstead and swear they still have the original vertical blinds that we bought at the windows. Such a shame that nothing has been done to it since. We took a train across London and marvelled at how much it has grown upwards, tower blocks and sky scrapers are everywhere and they are still building more. Train stations were so quiet as it was the weekend after the tube explosion at Parsons Green. At the end of the day, it was so nice to come back to the relative quiet of Abbey Wood and it’s greenness and have a chilled glass of wine!

Tomorrow we head off to Wimborne in Dorset to spend another week catching up with friends and family.

Goodbye Abbey Wood.

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